Good info! Thanks Tony! UPDATE - Put an offer in on a place with an existing 30w x 40d building. Drywalled and insulated, with a ceiling mounted NG heater, and dedicated 220v electrical service. Is going to need rework of the lights (got that covered), additional outlets (that one is easy - more!) and air (good info below!)..
The building is in nice shape, built in 2000. The one last area not discussed is the floor, it needs paint/sealing. What options have/would you guys used to seal up 10 year old concrete? It has some existing peeling paint on it that needs to go. Initially I think some sort of DIY epoxy, but am curious what you guys have successfully done. Thoughts? Wallyman From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Tony Cooper Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 9:24 PM To: Bruce Labitt; [email protected] Subject: Re: EXTERNAL: Re: Wally's future Garage-Mahal [air line set up] Rapid Air Fittings. The rating on my kit was 150 PSI. I have my air regulated at 135PSI and 95PSI Oiled. The manifold and station hardware are well machined high quality pieces. The 3/4" kit is rated at 175 PSI and is found here. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200484023_200484023 The fittings are easily used, just make a clean cut on the tubing and push into the fitting. To release a fitting simply depress the black ring and pull the tubing out. Very easy to reconfigure. There are many fitting types available - go here to see http://www.rapidairproducts.com/ Find best prices simply by googling "rapidair" Parker fitings are said to wrk as well. Here is the Parker catalog for the global air fittings: http://www.parker.com/literature/Bra...ts/3501-GC.pdf<http://www.parker.com/literature/Brass%20Products/3501-GC.pdf> You can get a 1/2" Parker Tee for under $3. On 10/15/2011 12:27 PM, Bruce Labitt wrote: Do you use standard compression fittings with this tubing? Or just the RapidAir fittings? I'll keep this in mind if I need to redo the air plumbing. I'm sure it was easier to do nylon, than iron. When you have a pipe threader - everything can be solved with threaded pipe :-) , and a quick trip to the hardware store. -Bruce On 10/15/2011 11:48 AM, Larry Alster wrote: 20100 1/2" Nylon Tubing Sold in 100 ft. roll. Working Pressure 150 PSI Temperature Range: -40O to +180o F Larry Alster 91 Miata White Knight 92 Miata Silver Bullet 92 Miata Honey B 04 MSM MX-5 Whooosh 06 WRX STi Subie -----Original Message----- From: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce Labitt Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 10:37 AM To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> Subject: Re: EXTERNAL: Re: Wally's future Garage-Mahal [air line set up] Following the northern tool link, I found this "Rated up to 150 PSI and 70°F" That doesn't seem good. Is that a typo? Other than that, it seems like a nice setup. I used black iron pipe for my garage. (Not expensive, ~ $1.16/ft from the big box stores) A cheap threader from Harbor Freight and a hacksaw is all you need plus a handful of couplers and tees. Valves are readily available. All the parts are available from your local hardware store or big box store. Working Pressure capability is 217 PSI at 400F for 3/4" schedule 40 pipe. If you can't thread this small diameter pipe, (3/4 or 1/2") then you probably don't have the chops to work on cars ;) JMHO. My setup only took me part of an afternoon to do. Only problem with black iron is that you have to plan it out in advance. Retrofitting black iron plumbing is harder (not impossible) than using nylon. -Bruce On 10/14/2011 1:42 PM, Tony Cooper wrote: I just installed my air system in my garage. PVC is simply dangerous - shrapnel ripping through sheet rock 30' away was enough to dissuade me. PVC will appear to be fine until it brittles up with age and then lets loose on you unexpectedly. I have a friend who used PEX and his installation looks great. The problem with PEX is that it degrades rapidly when exposed to UV light. If you can keep it dark it will work great. That means behind sheet rock or insulated. I ended up going with two of these RapidAir kits from Northern Tools plus a few other pieces for added drops. System was simple to install, it does not leak, (when installed correctly) and is easily modified. I have 6 total drops + hard connected retractable air hose and sandblaster cabinet. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200367525_200367525 While it is only 1/2" OD (3/8" ID) I pulled a loop around the perimeter of the garage effectively giving me 3/4" delivery to my feeds. I installed 2 regulators, the master one set at 135 PSI, and the 2nd one feeds a loop set at 95 PSI with an auto oiler for air tools. The system works well enough to drive my Sandblaster box at 100% duty cycle. I installed a Ingersoll Rand TSN45 2 stage 80 gal 5 HP compressor good for 16CFM at 135 PSI. I am happy with the results. Tony On 10/13/2011 7:17 PM, Dennis Hale wrote: Impact resistance is another problem. PVC under pressure when I let something fly around was the final reason I went ahead and used copper. I also sometimes pull on a line enough to bend the copper, PVC wouldn't like that. I wish I had done the main lines in 3/4 instead of 1/2 though. Dennis Hale _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower This e-mail and any attachments contain URS Corporation confidential information that may be proprietary or privileged. 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