This sounds like the perfect thing to leave for some other month,
it's too cold in my garage to work for any long time and when it
warms up I won't need the heater anyway....
My main problem is the hesitation/misfire. I think I actually have 2
problems. When I blip the throttle from idle, it misses on 1 cylinder
and sometimes will just die -not stall- just sputter until I let off
the gas, let it idle and then very slowly give it gas till past 2300
rpm. Then it'll pull ok, with that 1 cylinder miss every now and
then. Cruising in 5th past 2500 rpm sudden hard acceleration produces
that miss. I can deal with the miss but entering fast traffic with
the possibility of just sitting there for 5 secs isn't fun. I end up
revving past 2500 and popping the clutch (I can't force myself to
feather it) then I have to keep the revs above 2500. It's really
embarrassing @ my son's bus stop.
I messed w/the DPR a lot, back when the cam chain was off 1 tooth,
still haven't got it right. I'm almost sure 1 injector is bad. Could
this cause that major hesitation? I can't seem to find a timing light
for rent or lend anywhere, so the timing is set by ear. If the
ignition advance is working properly it still could be limited by the
dizzy being set too late -right? I mean the spark has to occur within
the arc (say 8 deg) of the rotor right?
Since the dizzy, rotor and cap are new,I have to check and fix
injectors
ignition timing
DPR setting
spark plugs
cables
Not sure what order.
Sorry for the long post. Still learning CIS-E.
Thanks,
Steve
On Mar 11, 2007, at 2:48 PM, Galen Bergthold wrote:
The heater flapper door can be done fairly easily after the heater
core assembly is removed. The easiest way I have found to do this is
to also remove the heater core itself, then use water and a scrubbing
sponge to remove and flush out all remaining foam and any glue
residue on the metal air control flaps. I found some 2" wide self
adhesive, fairly thin foam at a hardware store. I wanted to be sure
it stayed so I also used some 3M spray adhesive on both the flap and
the foam to help adhesion. Replace all the foam in there, any other
the foam in there isn't usually in very good shape. After
reinstalling the box make sure the heat control lever moves the air
control flap to the full closed position so no heat is allowed into
the cabin on the cool setting.
From: Steven Arguello <[email protected]>
To: Matthew Yip <[email protected]>
CC: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Mis-fire from idle...
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 01:45:11 -0500
I have the same problems! 1 mis-fire from idle (hasn't gone away
after 1500 miles) 2 No heat (need some help with that) 3 made it home
on parking lights- missing bolt on alternator support (fixed that)
How do you fix the flapper door? Bentley doesn't say much.
Are Digifant injectors the same as CIS-E? I'm pretty sure one's bad.
I'll check the throttle though.
Steve
On Mar 10, 2007, at 10:12 AM, Matthew Yip wrote:
It just dawned on me that I never posted my final disposition (and
also to try and get this list out of suspended animation).
After 5 months of "maintenance" and having been parked for 3 1/2
years, I finally got the '89 16v GTi on the road and legal. I know
I'm slow when working on cars but I had other things going on at the
same time so I really didn't take me 5 months to change a timing
belt, water pump, radiator, injector seals and fluid flushes - honest
<G> Admittedly I hit a few snags like replacing all the hoses only
to find that the radiator was leaking (probably because of the fresh
hoses) or that the axle cup seal that decided to fail because I had
the car on jack stands for too long but it's mostly complete now
which is a huge step forward.
I took the car out for a few trial runs late at night because the
Safety Inspection was dead. There's nothing like trying out a car
that is questionable on a sub-freezing night at 2300h when you're
alone and you live by yourself in the country - call me stupid, you
won't be the first. The good news was that while the brakes were a
bit touchy, everything held together. The rear calipers appeared to
be good but have proven to be frozen - either that or the
proportioning valve has died - the front brakes don't do much but the
rears work like a champ. It's fun to hurtle to a stoplight, hammer
the brakes and counter-steer as the rear tries to pass the front like
an old pickup truck. The other major issue was NO HEAT - the engine
warmed up but the flapper door in the heater box had lost its foam.
As a result, the interior remained at ambient which had been well
under FREEZING!!! Fortunately a buddy of mine took care of that for
me since that's one thing I didn't want to tac!
kle - pulling the heater box with an intact interior.
The running problems started to go away as the car got more
exercise. As it had been parked for 3+ years, the gasoline that was
in the tank was more like varnish and it smelled like it too. I
added 5 gallons when the car was "in process" and I added a bottle of
RedLine SI-1. While I didn't notice any change, I also hadn't driven
the car much but I figured that it wouldn't hurt. The more I drove
it, the more I realized that it was gutless for a 16v but that it was
starting to run smoother. Always a fan of "more must be better", I
added another bottle of SI-1 AND a bottle of Techron at the next fill-
up. About 50 miles into that tankful, the car sputtered and suddenly
started sounding like a 16v - I can't explain it but the 16v has a
very unique exhaust note that sounds significantly more aggressive
than 2v/cylinder VW products. Apparently all those cleaners had
finally knocked all the crapola in the injectors free and they were
spraying properly.
The next issue was the lack of power. As had been suggested, I
checked everything - vacuum lines, intake boots, injector seals - the
whole gamut. I've been around these cars long enough that I thought
I could find the problem. Finally I took it to my buddy who fixed
the heater box after I told him "I checked everything, I'm stumped".
He returned the car after checking specs and telling me that they
were OK but that I should drive it to further exercise the equipment.
One night, I almost made it home when I realized the dash lights were
awfully dim - hmm, new alternator isn't working, eh? Fortunately I
made it the remaining 3-4 miles on parking lights and a prayer.
While I was underhood, I found the exciter wire had broken - an easy
fix, whew. While I was at it, I decided to check the accelerator
cable even though another buddy had set it for me when he was at the
house - not that it's difficult, just that he'd already done it so I
figured that it was OK. WRONG!!!!! I jammed a piece of wood against
the accelerator pedal and checked underhood. I only had half-
throttle!!! No wonder the car was gutless - duh!! 2 minute later,
the car has almost double the throttle response (go figure)!!!
Matthew
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