For future reference, this is the best style joint separator that I've used - http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html
Harbour Freight stuff is great - it's cheap Chinese junk BUT it's dirt cheap and lasts thru at least one use cycle. My feeling is that if it works twice, I'm head of the cost curve!! Have fun replacing the rear axle bushings. Are you replacing them with OE? When we pulled them on the racecar, we used an air chisel to remove the old bushings and replaced them with Delrin. >________________________________ > From: Chad Rebuck <[email protected]> >To: Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list <[email protected]> >Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 9:44 PM >Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] tie rod replacement > >Got the tie rods replaced today. I needed a small pitman puller from >advance auto and an inner tie rod tool from harbor freight. The hf inner >tie rod tool was a deal at $32 after the 20% off coupon. I was almost >ready to order the Lisle set mentioned earlier for 2x the price but then I >realized hf had the right size fitting (1.25") in the set. > >Hardest part of the job was removing the outer tie rod from the wheel hub. >The various pitman pullers all seem a bit too wide to get a solid grip. > >Next i plan to remove the rear axle to replace the bushings. Along the way >I will install new braided metal brake lines all around. > >On Monday, April 30, 2012, Chad Rebuck wrote: > >> Maybe autozone or advance has such tools in stock? Will have to give >> them a try first. >> >> Thanks guys >> >> On Apr 30, 2012, at 4:36 PM, Matthew Yip <[email protected] <javascript:;>> >> wrote: >> >> > Buy this tool - >> http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=lisle+tie+rod+tool&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=5723175082135904069&sa=X&ei=Q_OeT_vLIKmX6QG046HwDg&ved=0CIIBEPMCMAM >> > >> > Remove the outer tie rod and slide this over the arm to reach the "nut" >> that secures the inner tie rod to the rack. When removing the outer tie >> rod, don't be like my friend, the engineer - he removed the outer tie rod >> from the spindle and then was unable to remove the jam nut for the outer >> tie rod. So he called me, the bean counter who told him (much akin to the >> famous line from Young Frankenstein) - put the tie rod back...then remove >> the jam nut... >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> ________________________________ >> >> From: Anthony Pelletier <[email protected] <javascript:;>> >> >> To: "[email protected] <javascript:;>" < >> [email protected] <javascript:;>>; >> "[email protected]<javascript:;>" >> <[email protected] <javascript:;>> >> >> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 4:06 PM >> >> Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] tie rod replacement >> >> >> >> You dont have to remove the rack. There is a tool that looks like a >> pipe and on one end there is a place for your rachet, and on the other a >> place to slide in a fitting to slide on the inner tie rod. Makes the >> process pretty easy. Worst part for me is getting the darn rack boot on >> withe the little hole for the air breather. >> >> >> >> Tony >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> a2-16v-list mailing list >> >> [email protected] <javascript:;> >> >> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ >> > a2-16v-list mailing list >> > [email protected] <javascript:;> >> > http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list >> >_______________________________________________ >a2-16v-list mailing list >[email protected] >http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > > > _______________________________________________ a2-16v-list mailing list [email protected] http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
