So my recent problem has made me lift the bonnet and hatches for more than just 
checking oil and water levels and fitting upgrade bits.
It's a sobering thought when you start to trace plastic fuel lines around the 
sharp edges of a Morgan chassis and then as a knock on plastic brake lines - OK 
so they have survived for 17 years bouncing around unsupported and chaffing 
against sharp edges without problems , but I think I will look to installing a 
few more P clips to move pipes away from sharp edges and heat sources. Noticed 
some evidence of dampness (not a leak) on the front rear splitter by the master 
cylinder so a bit of judicious spanner work and a wipe over and mental note to 
monitor -  hope the fuel pipes aren't using the prop shaft for support! they 
enter the tunnel one end and then emerge the other - must do some more 
proactive preventative maintenance going forward. will consider being a bit 
more hands on regarding mechanical checks in future which I assumed would be 
covered off by the annual service, that I am beginning to think concentrates on 
the Morgan
 special elements and then low mileage servicing items like oil changes rather 
than a good root around to see if there are any potential problems other than 
those discovered in the MOT. 
As an example, although I have had no problems, my car has done 40K and is 17 
years old so do I need to consider replacing seals in the brake and clutch 
master cylinder - both pretty inconvenient if they fail but for different 
reasons and easy jobs to do - I had the rear brake cylinders replaced last 
service as they were locking the brakes on during the aggressive MOT brake 
tests, so is that an indicator that other seals are reaching end of life?  
 
Bit worrying really, but atleast the Morgan is so hands on you can sense if 
there is a problem brewing when you drive it.
Richard M800RGN+8
 

________________________________
 From: e-mail colin.jones5857 <[email protected]>
To: mogtalk2 <[email protected]> 
Sent: Monday, 2 July 2012, 9:06
Subject: Re: [mogtalk2] One for the +8 doctors
  
Hi William

Your technicians were BS'ing you....;-) maybe they wanted a driver to go home 
in.  The drive cycle takes all of 10-15 min or so to complete.

Ignition on. Idle for 10 seconds, drive to a min of 30 MPH for 2 min. 
Stop car leave engine running and drive to 50 MPH for 1-2 min.
Stop car and switch off, wait 30 seconds and repeat above 4 more times.

You have written many times in the past and it always seemed your cars in the 
states were different that the federal spec cars sold in the UK, I remember 
that you make comments about the functionality of my +8 back in 2002 that did 
not match the car so I bought a Rovacom and had a play and swapped information 
with David Poole who also had a USA spec car in the States and his was also the 
same as mine.  Perhaps they built 2 specifications for the different markets as 
I have worked on about 20-25 +8's in the intervening years and all were the 
same as my 02 car and all sadly seemed to have the same issues.  Most are known 
now and the fixes simple, I moved on and have had 2 +4's now (both 2008's) and 
must say the later car is a delight as I turn it on and everything just works 
which is so different than the temperamental GEMS that was in my earlier cars, 
I am getting much more driving fun from them and no longer carry a laptop and 
Rovacom interface as part
 of everyday life! 

BR
Colin

On 1 July 2012 22:06, William G. Lamb, III <[email protected]> wrote: 

>That's GEMS of course. My canister is in the same location as Richard's
under the radiator overflow. Now I see he has 14 CUX. My NAS 4.0 has no
Advanced Evaps..., so it runs! ;-)
>
>Not sure that code on Testbook is multiple misfire but I no longer have
access to the LR tech library.
>
>In or around 1997 LR wanted us to put five drive cycles through any
vehicle which had had a multiple misfire code reset. That was a real pain
and the tech had to take the car home which could be
problematic.
>
>Do you recall the specific drive cycle instructions? As I recall, they
were lengthy and required so many minutes at various speeds and RPM. My
grey matter has turned to mush! ;-)
>
>At 02:59 PM 7/1/2012, e-mail colin.jones5857 wrote:
>
>Requires 5 'drive cycles' to put
the MIL light out, simple to do and normal use will do it anyway, it does
not however erase the stored fault code for 'multiple misfire'.
>> 
>>BR
>>Colin
>>
>>On 1 July 2012 19:04, William G. Lamb, III
<[email protected]>
wrote:
>> 
>
>
>The version you have can also throw a MIL light when that happens.
Usually extinguishes though as it's non-critical.
>
>
>At 01:43 PM 7/1/2012, Richard Jones wrote:
>
>Hi Colin
>>
>>Absolutely brill - yes I do have advanced Evaps, but not exactly as
you describe, tracing all the petrol lines, my carbon canister sits on
the top of the passenger footwell in front of my radiator expansion tank
and the valve (small black plastic box marked purge) sits on top of it. 
>>
>>Cause and effect are exactly as you descibe and fit my symptoms
exactly; even the overfill that occured in the Shell garage when the auto
stop malfunctioned and I overflowed a bit. Final factor there is a long
left hand slip on to the M4 that is taken at speed and that would have
forced the excess fuel down the vent pipe as this and the filler is on
the offside. Will sleep peacefully tonight knowing there isn't trouble
brewing up. Moral of the tale - avoid fast left handers after you have
overfilled!  
>>
>>However every cloud . . .  it has highlighted my fuel filter
wasn't changed at the last service when it should have been. Will have
words with young Jamie as he did the service and was working all around
the filter while he was fitting the anti tramp bars.
>>
>>That's a beer I owe you
>>
>> 
>>
>>Richard M800RGN+8  View posts on The Mail Archive 
>>http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ Modify Your Subscription 
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