Is anyone else in love with Erick's brain? Jus' saying'. Sherri On Jan 25, 2012 5:59 PM, "Erick Westcott" <[email protected]> wrote:
> The questions you have asked could be explained better than this. What > you are asking could be made into a 12 week course. So here is my best > shot, without writing a textbook. If you want something expanded on let me > know. Here you go,**** > > ** ** > > For starters: I want to confirm my suspicions regarding the type of > curing. My research leads me to think that our products are cured using a > "free radical cure" process. I understand there is also a "cationic" cure > process, but it doesn't sound like it would be suitable for nail products-- > are there any nail products that use a "cationic" cure?**** > > ** ** > > Gel cures by UV energy entering the gel and reacting with the photo > initiators, which release free radicals. Cationic curing is normally used > for adhesives.**** > > ** ** > > Recently, we've been hearing a lot of "correction" in the previous > explanation of "heat-spikes." It used to be acceptable to over-simplify > this phenomenon with the "friction" explanation. Suddenly everyone is > saying that it isn't friction. Ok-- so "exo-thermal reaction", fine-- but > WHAT CAUSES the exo-thermal reaction? Specifically? At the molecular level? > What's the process by which heat is generated? (research teaches me words > like "precipitation" and "crystallization" but I'm still looking for how > those words apply to our products and their specific curing processes.)*** > * > > ** ** > > Friction is a quick and easy way to explain the heat spike. It is not > exactly technically accurate. The heat with gels is caused by an > exothermic reaction. Energy never goes away or dies, it can only be > transformed. The UV energy that enters the nail has to go somewhere. > During the curing process some of it is converted into heat. Just like a > light bulb where some of the energy is used to create visible light and > some of it is converted into heat.**** > > ** ** > > And I'm also trying to understand what is different-- chemically-- from > the "traditional" or "hard" gels that we've used for decades to build > extensions; the ones that we could soak in acetone for a week and they'd > still be perfect, shiny, and untouched (Ok, I've never actually soaked one > of these for a week-- it's possible that after that long they would start > to break down... but I'D LIKE TO KNOW THAT TOO!) vs these "soak-off" or > "soft" gels that can be removed with acetone in 10-20 minutes. Why? Are > they entirely different types of compounds? Why makes them different? **** > > ** ** > > The difference between “hard” gels and “soft” gels is in the ingredients > used to make the products. They are some of the same ingredients but used > in different proportions. Make brownies and add a bit more flower and salt > and you have cookies. Make cookies add a bit more flower and baking powder > and you have cake. Make brownies, but instead of the flower add cream, put > it in the freezer and you have ice cream. Gel companies, at least our gel > company, does not make the raw materials. I don’t have an oil well in my > back yard, which I then refine and turn into an oligomer. We have a > “pantry” of literally hundreds if not thousands of ingredients we can > choose from. Some of those ingredients are exactly the same. You can buy > Fred’s milk, Jim’s milk, Sally’s Milk or Herman’s milk, but they are all > milk. Some of those ingredients are the same but have different > properties. Low fat, 1%, 2%, skim etc. We decide what we want the product > to do, then blend things together until we get the results we want. All > the same chemicals, but some of the properties or quantities are different. > **** > > ** ** > > Does the "12 week lifespan" statement apply to all gels? Acrylics? Or only > to gel polishes? To gel polishes that are all-gel formulas? or to gel > polishes that contain solvents?**** > > ** ** > > I answered this in a different message, but to summarize… When I made the > 12 week comment I was talking about the maximum life cycle of a single > application of gel on a nail. I would imagine that after three months if > the nail was not completely grown out, I would assume that the client would > either pick or file the rest of it off. Could be four months for slow > growers, or two months for fast growers. It could even be up to nine > months on the toes.**** > > ** ** > > And I still haven't had anyone explain how the difference between all-gel > vs gel & solvent gel polish formulas is supposed to affect me and my > clients? I understand what's different about them, but I keep getting > half-statements about how they apply to different nail types, but no one's > telling me what different nail types? I thought the hybrid formulas worked > fine! I don't understand why I need an all gel formula?**** > > ** ** > > All gel vs. gel and solvent will not affect you or your clients in any way > with one exception. If you leave your bottles open the solvent gel might > get thick.**** > > ** ** > > Oh yes: And WHY does oxygen inhibit polymerization?**** > > ** ** > > Oxygen inhibits free radical polymerization because oxygen is a free > radical inhibitor. Just as heat energy inhibits freezing. I’m not trying > to be evasive on this subject. To get any more technical then that I would > need to start drawing out diagrams and equations.**** > > ** ** > > Erick Westcott, CEO**** > > Gelousy Gel Nail Systems**** > > 1745 W Deer Valley RD STE 124**** > > Phoenix AZ 85027**** > > 602-493-9043**** > > Fax: 602-493-2544**** > > [email protected]**** > > www.gelousy.com**** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On > Behalf Of *Maggie in Visalia > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 25, 2012 4:06 PM > *To:* 1Nail Tech list > *Subject:* NailTech:: More Gel Geekery**** > > ** ** > > Alright... while I have your attention. I am interested in more about > light-curing technology than is reasonably applicable to the average nail > tech. **** > > **** > > For starters: I want to confirm my suspicions regarding the type of > curing. My research leads me to think that our products are cured using a > "free radical cure" process. I understand there is also a "cationic" cure > process, but it doesn't sound like it would be suitable for nail products-- > are there any nail products that use a "cationic" cure?**** > > **** > > Recently, we've been hearing a lot of "correction" in the previous > explanation of "heat-spikes." It used to be acceptable to over-simplify > this phenomenon with the "friction" explanation. Suddenly everyone is > saying that it isn't friction. Ok-- so "exo-thermal reaction", fine-- but > WHAT CAUSES the exo-thermal reaction? Specifically? At the molecular level? > What's the process by which heat is generated? (research teaches me words > like "precipitation" and "crystallization" but I'm still looking for how > those words apply to our products and their specific curing processes.)*** > * > > **** > > And I'm also trying to understand what is different-- chemically-- from > the "traditional" or "hard" gels that we've used for decades to build > extensions; the ones that we could soak in acetone for a week and they'd > still be perfect, shiny, and untouched (Ok, I've never actually soaked one > of these for a week-- it's possible that after that long they would start > to break down... but I'D LIKE TO KNOW THAT TOO!) vs these "soak-off" or > "soft" gels that can be removed with acetone in 10-20 minutes. Why? Are > they entirely different types of compounds? Why makes them different? **** > > **** > > Does the "12 week lifespan" statement apply to all gels? Acrylics? Or only > to gel polishes? To gel polishes that are all-gel formulas? or to gel > polishes that contain solvents?**** > > **** > > And I still haven't had anyone explain how the difference between all-gel > vs gel & solvent gel polish formulas is supposed to affect me and my > clients? I understand what's different about them, but I keep getting > half-statements about how they apply to different nail types, but no one's > telling me what different nail types? I thought the hybrid formulas worked > fine! I don't understand why I need an all gel formula?**** > > **** > > Have I asked enough questions? And-- be warned-- answers only beget more > questions, choosing to humor me WILL open a Pandora's box.**** > > **** > > Oh yes: And WHY does oxygen inhibit polymerization?**** > > **** > > **** > > **** > > Maggie Franklin: **** > > Owner & Artist, The Art of Nailz <http://artofnailz.info/>, Visalia CA**** > > * "Visionary rebel dreamer; obviously way ahead of my time." > *Maggie Rants [and Raves]@Nails Magazine <http://blogs.nailsmag.com/maggie/> > **** > > Facebook <http://www.facebook.com/onykophile>**** > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "NailTech" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nailtech?hl=en.**** > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "NailTech" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nailtech?hl=en. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "NailTech" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nailtech?hl=en.
