Right on. Thanks! Michelle Phoenix, Owner/Elite Nail Technician Wet Paint Nail Spa Nails, Skin & Hair www.wetpaintnailspa.com
On Jan 26, 2012, at 10:12 AM, "Erick Westcott" <[email protected]> wrote: > First of all, thank you everyone for your kind comments. I really do > appreciate it. I live this stuff every day and really geek out when someone > else is interested in it. > > On to the free radicals. In past presentations I have always left the free > radical thing out, because it scares people. It is one of those blown out of > proportion things. > > Free radicals are things that cause reactions. They start reactions. > Without free radicals we would not have many kinds of reactions and life on > earth would be unable to develop. For example we would not have fire. > > We need free radicals in our bodies in order to function. The problem comes > in when we have too many free radicals. When we dump garbage into our bodies > and do not consume enough good stuff the balance is off and too many free > radicals are created which cause cell damage. > > However the free radicals that are created during the curing process are used > up and do not enter the body. If you do not have a free radical, > polymerization cannot occur. > > Erick Westcott, CEO > Gelousy Gel Nail Systems > 1745 W Deer Valley RD STE 124 > Phoenix AZ 85027 > 602-493-9043 > Fax: 602-493-2544 > [email protected] > www.gelousy.com > > > > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf > Of Wet Paint Nail Spa > Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 6:17 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: NailTech:: More Gel Geekery > > What does "release free radicals" mean? Are we talking about the free > radicals that cause cell damage? Is the sunscreen I put on my clients going > to protect against free radical damage? > > Michelle Phoenix, Owner/Elite Nail Technician > Wet Paint Nail Spa > Nails, Skin & Hair > www.wetpaintnailspa.com > > On Jan 25, 2012, at 7:59 PM, "Erick Westcott" <[email protected]> wrote: > > The questions you have asked could be explained better than this. What you > are asking could be made into a 12 week course. So here is my best shot, > without writing a textbook. If you want something expanded on let me know. > Here you go, > > For starters: I want to confirm my suspicions regarding the type of curing. > My research leads me to think that our products are cured using a "free > radical cure" process. I understand there is also a "cationic" cure process, > but it doesn't sound like it would be suitable for nail products-- are there > any nail products that use a "cationic" cure? > > Gel cures by UV energy entering the gel and reacting with the photo > initiators, which release free radicals. Cationic curing is normally used > for adhesives. > > Recently, we've been hearing a lot of "correction" in the previous > explanation of "heat-spikes." It used to be acceptable to over-simplify this > phenomenon with the "friction" explanation. Suddenly everyone is saying that > it isn't friction. Ok-- so "exo-thermal reaction", fine-- but WHAT CAUSES the > exo-thermal reaction? Specifically? At the molecular level? What's the > process by which heat is generated? (research teaches me words like > "precipitation" and "crystallization" but I'm still looking for how those > words apply to our products and their specific curing processes.) > > Friction is a quick and easy way to explain the heat spike. It is not > exactly technically accurate. The heat with gels is caused by an exothermic > reaction. Energy never goes away or dies, it can only be transformed. The > UV energy that enters the nail has to go somewhere. During the curing > process some of it is converted into heat. Just like a light bulb where some > of the energy is used to create visible light and some of it is converted > into heat. > > And I'm also trying to understand what is different-- chemically-- from the > "traditional" or "hard" gels that we've used for decades to build extensions; > the ones that we could soak in acetone for a week and they'd still be > perfect, shiny, and untouched (Ok, I've never actually soaked one of these > for a week-- it's possible that after that long they would start to break > down... but I'D LIKE TO KNOW THAT TOO!) vs these "soak-off" or "soft" gels > that can be removed with acetone in 10-20 minutes. Why? Are they entirely > different types of compounds? Why makes them different? > > The difference between “hard” gels and “soft” gels is in the ingredients used > to make the products. They are some of the same ingredients but used in > different proportions. Make brownies and add a bit more flower and salt and > you have cookies. Make cookies add a bit more flower and baking powder and > you have cake. Make brownies, but instead of the flower add cream, put it in > the freezer and you have ice cream. Gel companies, at least our gel company, > does not make the raw materials. I don’t have an oil well in my back yard, > which I then refine and turn into an oligomer. We have a “pantry” of > literally hundreds if not thousands of ingredients we can choose from. Some > of those ingredients are exactly the same. You can buy Fred’s milk, Jim’s > milk, Sally’s Milk or Herman’s milk, but they are all milk. Some of those > ingredients are the same but have different properties. Low fat, 1%, 2%, > skim etc. We decide what we want the product to do, then blend things > together until we get the results we want. All the same chemicals, but some > of the properties or quantities are different. > > Does the "12 week lifespan" statement apply to all gels? Acrylics? Or only to > gel polishes? To gel polishes that are all-gel formulas? or to gel polishes > that contain solvents? > > I answered this in a different message, but to summarize… When I made the 12 > week comment I was talking about the maximum life cycle of a single > application of gel on a nail. I would imagine that after three months if the > nail was not completely grown out, I would assume that the client would > either pick or file the rest of it off. Could be four months for slow > growers, or two months for fast growers. It could even be up to nine months > on the toes. > > And I still haven't had anyone explain how the difference between all-gel vs > gel & solvent gel polish formulas is supposed to affect me and my clients? I > understand what's different about them, but I keep getting half-statements > about how they apply to different nail types, but no one's telling me what > different nail types? I thought the hybrid formulas worked fine! I don't > understand why I need an all gel formula? > > All gel vs. gel and solvent will not affect you or your clients in any way > with one exception. If you leave your bottles open the solvent gel might get > thick. > > Oh yes: And WHY does oxygen inhibit polymerization? > > Oxygen inhibits free radical polymerization because oxygen is a free radical > inhibitor. Just as heat energy inhibits freezing. I’m not trying to be > evasive on this subject. To get any more technical then that I would need to > start drawing out diagrams and equations. > > Erick Westcott, CEO > Gelousy Gel Nail Systems > 1745 W Deer Valley RD STE 124 > Phoenix AZ 85027 > 602-493-9043 > Fax: 602-493-2544 > [email protected] > www.gelousy.com > > > > > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf > Of Maggie in Visalia > Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2012 4:06 PM > To: 1Nail Tech list > Subject: NailTech:: More Gel Geekery > > Alright... while I have your attention. I am interested in more about > light-curing technology than is reasonably applicable to the average nail > tech. > > For starters: I want to confirm my suspicions regarding the type of curing. > My research leads me to think that our products are cured using a "free > radical cure" process. I understand there is also a "cationic" cure process, > but it doesn't sound like it would be suitable for nail products-- are there > any nail products that use a "cationic" cure? > > Recently, we've been hearing a lot of "correction" in the previous > explanation of "heat-spikes." It used to be acceptable to over-simplify this > phenomenon with the "friction" explanation. Suddenly everyone is saying that > it isn't friction. Ok-- so "exo-thermal reaction", fine-- but WHAT CAUSES the > exo-thermal reaction? Specifically? At the molecular level? What's the > process by which heat is generated? (research teaches me words like > "precipitation" and "crystallization" but I'm still looking for how those > words apply to our products and their specific curing processes.) > > And I'm also trying to understand what is different-- chemically-- from the > "traditional" or "hard" gels that we've used for decades to build extensions; > the ones that we could soak in acetone for a week and they'd still be > perfect, shiny, and untouched (Ok, I've never actually soaked one of these > for a week-- it's possible that after that long they would start to break > down... but I'D LIKE TO KNOW THAT TOO!) vs these "soak-off" or "soft" gels > that can be removed with acetone in 10-20 minutes. Why? Are they entirely > different types of compounds? Why makes them different? > > Does the "12 week lifespan" statement apply to all gels? Acrylics? Or only to > gel polishes? To gel polishes that are all-gel formulas? or to gel polishes > that contain solvents? > > And I still haven't had anyone explain how the difference between all-gel vs > gel & solvent gel polish formulas is supposed to affect me and my clients? I > understand what's different about them, but I keep getting half-statements > about how they apply to different nail types, but no one's telling me what > different nail types? I thought the hybrid formulas worked fine! I don't > understand why I need an all gel formula? > > Have I asked enough questions? And-- be warned-- answers only beget more > questions, choosing to humor me WILL open a Pandora's box. > > Oh yes: And WHY does oxygen inhibit polymerization? > > > > Maggie Franklin: > Owner & Artist, The Art of Nailz, Visalia CA > "Visionary rebel dreamer; obviously way ahead of my time." > Maggie Rants [and Raves]@Nails Magazine > Facebook > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "NailTech" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nailtech?hl=en. > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "NailTech" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nailtech?hl=en. > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "NailTech" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nailtech?hl=en. > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "NailTech" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nailtech?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "NailTech" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nailtech?hl=en.
