Tribal biases easily formed ultimately dismissed  BY JODI RAVE LEE Lincoln
Journal Star

BARONA RESERVATION, Calif. When Tony Pinto of the Barona Band of Mission
Indians arrived at the Kumeyaay Summer Solstice gathering, he was given the
respect I would expect a tribal elder to receive.

The 87-year-old man was quickly tended to at the gathering in the foothills
30 miles east of San Diego. He was escorted to a seat under towering
eucalyptus trees, his presence acknowledged before the assembled group. He
also was asked to speak, and the first to be fed. All this took place as
the Barona Band brought its community together in recognition of the summer
solstice.

Normally, I wouldn't be attending any event on a California reservation
never had a reason to, never thought about it nor did I feel any connection
to the land or people. Or so I thought.

The only thoughts I had were preconceived notions. California tribes,
California reservations and California casinos held little interest for me.

So when a fellow journalist -- a member of a California tribe -- invited me
and two friends to accompany her to the Barona Reservation, I had to think
about it. But as the 18th annual Native American Journalists Association
conference in San Diego began to wind down, welcoming summer through
ceremony seemed a good idea.

We decided to go.

I went to the summer solstice gathering with an open heart, not knowing
what to expect from the Kumeyaay. All I had were my uninformed impressions
of California tribes: practically landless, virtually cultureless, nearly
anonymous.

Well, they had been nearly anonymous until 1998, when California voters
passed a measure to increase tribes' casino markets with Las Vegas-style
gambling. Tribes have since been building a casino empire. The Pechanga
Band of Luiseno Indians last week opened a $262 million casino resort,
effectively creating the largest tribal casino in the West.

In truth, if not for gambling, I would likely know far less about
California tribes. It was their gambling enterprises, after all, that
opened the door to Class III gambling in Indian Country. The Cabazon Band
of Mission Indians near Palm Springs tested gambling's tepid waters with
its bingo operations more than a decade ago.

Asserting its sovereign rights, the then-25-member Cabazon tribe landed
favor with the U.S. Supreme Court in 1987 after the state of California
attempted to regulate the tribe's bingo enterprises. The high court
concluded: "Tribal sovereignty is dependent on, and subordinate to, only
the federal government, not the states."

The Cabazon Band's early bingo halls have since dramatically changed the
political, social and economic landscape in Indian Country.

As we drove to the Barona Reservation, my biases of California tribes as
mere casino entities were reinforced each time we passed what seemed like
hundreds of smiling Kenny Rogers billboards, each letting us know we were
getting closer to the Barona Casino. We were getting near the tiny,
8-square-mile reservation that represented about 450 tribal members.

Again, my prejudices were reinforced considering my own tribe -- the
Mandan, Hidatsa and Arikara Nation -- consists of about 8,500 enrolled
members of which about half live on our sprawling, million-acre Fort
Berthold Reservation in North Dakota.

We drove past the casino making our way to the tribe's museum, community
and cultural center. It was new. The smell of crisp dollar bills blended
with the aromatic scent of eucalyptus. Once we stepped out of the car and
into the community center, it was evident that no billboards were needed
here to proclaim the tribe's evident pride in its culture and people.

I had entered another world, not much different from my own.

The four of us walked past the new swimming pool, past the baseball diamond
and to a tree grove that met an open field, where a much larger group had
gathered for the greeting of summer. With the casino out of sight, my
preconceived notions were quickly fading. When you live in Indian Country,
it's inevitably a small world. The commonalities shared among 550-plus
federally recognized tribes often outweigh the differences.

Once at the gathering, we were quickly welcomed and recognized as visitors.
One of their community members quickly associated us with a member of the
Mandan, Hidatsa and Arikara Nation who is involved in repatriation efforts
-- our ongoing attempt to protect ancestral remains and cultural artifacts.

After the museum visit and listening to tribal speakers, it became evident
that this small California tribe had kept its traditions, language and
culture intact, persevering through hundreds of years of assimilation
efforts like hundreds of other tribes across the country.

We were welcomed with prayer in their Kumeyaay language. We were treated to
their traditional songs and dance. I was surprised to learn later that the
tribe succeeded where hundreds of others didn't. They still lived in their
ancestral area, where archeological evidence places them for at least
20,000 years, one of the oldest inhabited areas in the United States.

And like scores of tribes across the country, we learned of the band's
efforts to keep its language alive. We learned of tribal efforts to recover
ancestral bones from university and museum shelves. One of the tribe's
speakers told the gathering of Tony Pinto's quest to get his grandmother
back from a museum, only to have her disappear again before she could be
brought home.

"To this day, we don't know where this gentleman's grandmother is," said
Steve Banegas, a tribal council member whose voice quivered as he explained
how he told Pinto he would help bring his grandmother home. Banegas said he
felt like he had failed because she wasn't home yet. But he and the tribe's
repatriation committee hadn't given up yet either.

Pinto might not live to see his grandmother returned, but the Kumeyaay seem
destined to live on.

Jodi Rave Lee writes a monthly column for Lee Enterprises. She can be
reached at 402-473-7240 or [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--

Andr� Cramblit: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Operations Director Northern California Indian Development Council

NCIDC (http://www.ncidc.org) is a non-profit that meets the development
needs of American Indians and operates an art gallery featuring the art of
California tribes (http://www.americanindianonline.com)

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