Todd,
I don't want to you think that this particular coin is
DEFINITELY a fake from my comments.
It's just that, since the Chinese have made so many
fake Trade dollars and 1-Yen Japanese Silver 1-Ounce
coins, that it is very hard to tell the real ones from
the fakes, even for the experienced collector or for
that matter, grading serviced.
I've read many articles on these two types of coins
and although I have many of both, I will not sell any
of them, because I just don't know whether any of them
are real or not anymore. I have looked for flaws,
weighed them and sized them and in most cases, they
meet the specs all the way around.
So I don't see how even the grading services could
possibly be able to tell. I am not talking about the
ones that are valued at $100 to $400 but some of the
1-yen coins are valued at tens of thousands of
dollars. I think they are fakes but without solid
proof, who knows.
As far as the negative feedback being held against
you, I don't think that rule should pretain to those
two types of highly counterfeit coins.
Art
Tokyo
--- toddnjeannie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Art, Mopar68, and Illan,
> Thanks VERY much for your feedback. I have
> been agonizing over
> this somewhat all day. My decision - in large part
> based on your
> feedback, is that I'm going to tell the seller I'm
> sorry but I won't
> be paying - I'll get some negative feedback (and I
> hate to do that to
> him if he's really an honest seller) but I'm not a
> big ebay buyer
> anyway.
>
> However, since he won't even send me the
> original .jpeg photos he
> posted, has no return policy, and still hasn't
> answered me regarding
> when and where he got the coin -- I don't feel too
> bad. Definitely
> chalk one up on the learning curve for me.
>
> I had no idea that counterfeits could be done
> so well until I
> started looking into this particular issue.
>
> And by the way, this group looks quite
> interesting and I'm going
> to stick around and 'listen in'.
>
> Todd
> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Illan 1 @
> Hotmail"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > In the "old days" the mint mark was not on
> the master die
> and so you can easily see mint mark shifting from
> place to place (in
> reason of course).
> >
> > Actualy the first time I notice it was on a
> Kennedy Halve (I think
> it was from the 70'th) and I send Email inquiring
> about it to ANA and
> was told the above. (I reffered to it is close D and
> far D, in my
> Email, Ah)
> >
> > Have a nice day
> >
> > Illan
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Art Balfour
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 2:02 PM
> > Subject: Re: [COINS CLUB] Re: Help!! Have I been
> suckered??
> >
> >
> > Hey Todd,
> > I just did a Dick Tracy on EBay and Yahoo
> Auctions and
> > scanned several 1873-CC Trade Dollars and I
> noticed
> > something.
> >
> > The Mint Mark C C seems to be placed in a
> particular
> > place under the N, S and PERIOD in the word
> GRAINS. on
> > the reverse.
> >
> > It may be that in the Dark Ages, the U.S. Mint
> was not
> > very efficient in their dies, not that they are
> any
> > better nowadays, but your coin picture and the
> > pictures of some of the scanned pictures that I
> saw,
> > in particular a NGC graded one, seem to have the
> CC
> > mint mark in a different location.
> >
> > Don't know, just an observation.
> >
> > Art
> > Tokyo
> >
> > --- toddnjeannie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Thanks for your response, Mopar. I'm checking
> with
> > > him on better
> > > photos and a return policy. None was listed
> no the
> > > auction. The only
> > > wording was "1873 Trade Dollar. Nice coin do
> not
> > > know anything about."
> > >
> > > Well this guy has a 100% feedback rating on 49
> > > items, mostly items for
> > > watches. He sells a few coins - all of his
> photos
> > > have that purplish
> > > tint. He listed this in the 'historical
> > > memorabilia' section. Yes
> > > I'm a 'numb-skull' - the auction looks like it
> could
> > > be a real setup.
> > >
> > > We'll see if he has any better photos and a
> return
> > > policy.
> > >
> > > thanks again,
> > >
> > > Todd
> > >
> > > --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], mopar68.rm
> > > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Todd,
> > > >
> > > > It is really hard (Read that as impossible)
> to
> > > tell anything
> > > > for sure from the 4 photos you have posted.
>
> > > >
> > > > As for myself, I would back off as I as the
> photos
> > > are very
> > > > poor for that kind of price. What kind of
> wording
> > > did the
> > > > listing have? That can also be a tip off
> for fake
> > > coins
> > > > sometimes.
> > > >
> > > > I have a few Trade Dollars and would like to
> get
> > > more, but I
> > > > shy away from bad photos and suspect
> wording.
> > > Also it is
> > > > strange that it did not go for more, unless
> the
> > > wording and
> > > > photos scared off other bidders.
> > > >
> > > > What kind of return policy does the seller
> have
> > > with this
> > > > coin? If it is a no return, then I would
> run and
> > > not even
> > > > concider paying for it and take the Negative
> > > Feedback without
> > > > a second thought about it.
> > > >
> > > > What is the sellers Feedback Rating? Don't
> just
> > > look at the
> > > > number by their name, click on it and go
> look at
> > > the total
> > > > and any Negatives to see what is going on
> with
> > > them. Check
> > > > the type of
> > >
> > > items they have sold in the past. These are
> all
> > > > things you should be doing prior to bidding
> on
> > > high dollar
> > > > items.
> > > >
> > > > Good Luck which ever way you end up going.
> > > >
> > > > Mopar
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED],
> "toddnjeannie"
> > > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Well I did it, I let the excitement
> of the
> > > moment get me and I
> > > > > bid (and won) an 1873 CC Trade Dollar.
> If
>
=== message truncated ===
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