Stripped timing gear? I'm beginning to think that something like that
may have happened, although at no point was there any actual ignition.
I would think that you wouldn't strip the timing gear unless the
engine actually started up, but badly wrong.
There are only 8 possible candidates for the distributor position of
cylinder 1. I tried each of them, always insuring that the clockwise
order of the wires is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. In none of the 8 positions does
it start.
Maybe somehow the spark isn't getting through? I hooked up a timing
light to a spark plug wire. It flashes while cranking. Also, I
verified the position of the distributor to see if maybe it
accidentally got loose and rotated. No, it still lines up with a mark
I made earlier.
But tell me, HOW would a timing gear get stripped? How could you tell
if this happened? If the timing light flashes, doesn't this mean that
the timing gear is OK?
Actually, the *only* thing that changed since it was running great was
this cap and rotor. The new wires worked just great. I'm running low
on ideas at the moment......
Robert
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Jerry Sims <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
> After reading about the Dodge Sportsman 360 Ignition problem, I am
reminded of a problem I encounter several years ago working on similar
ignition problems. I changed the wires, distributor cap and etc. some
where in the process the timing gear stripped. Leaving me dumb
founded because I continued to reset the timing and checking the
location of the wires and etc. until I realized the timing gear was
stripped.
>
> Jerry Sims
>
> mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> denisond3d3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Thanks. I thought about the possibility of a 180-degree error in
> > installing the cap, but there is a single notch on the cap and a
> > corresponging tab on the base, facing the engine, so that doesn't
> seem
> > possible. The little vent on the top of the new cap is 180-degrees
> > from where the old one was, but in the instructions it says quite
> > plainly that this doesn't mean anything.
> >
> > I think that perhaps the marking for Cylinder 1 must be wrong on
the
> > new cap. The old one had no marking at all.
>
> With the #1 piston at top dead center, its hard to tell if its
at
> the end of the compression stroke, or the end of its exhaust stroke
-
> unless you have a valve cover off to watch the valve actuators not-
> moving. Anyway, if the distributor was inserted into the block
with
> its shaft turned 180 degrees off, the rotor would also be pointing
> 180 degrees out. But, its only on the 413s and 440s that I KNOW
that
> is easy to do. (Have done it myself) I havent had a 318
distributor
> out to look at the key. It would also be all too easy to put the
> oil pump drive shaft back in wrong. It has about 18 teeth, and
> should be installed with the #1 piston at tdc, and the slot that
> turns the distributor facing a certain way. If someone installed
the
> oil pump drive shaft "off" by one or more teeth, you would have to
> compensate for it: by either turning the case of the distributor to
> where the terminal on the cap marked #1 was in front of the rotor
> end, or by reinstalling the wires on the cap where they need to be,
> not where the cap had the #1 label.
> I would not expect the marking for cylinder # 1 on the cap
> to be incorrect ---IF the distributor and its drive had been
> installed correctly, and the distributor case was positioned in
more
> or less the original direction. Thats why I would fall back on
> getting the #1 piston to tdc, and seeing which way the rotor
points.
> It would either be pointing to the position for #1 cylinder, or for
> #6. This would be regardless of which way the distributor case had
> been installed, or if the shaft was 180 degrees wrong, or whether
> someone had put the oil pump driving shaft back in a wrong
> orientation.
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