Old rotor & cap are back in, still no start. I checked the position of
the distributor, it still lines up with a mark I made before, so it
didn't come loose and rotate.
I'll look for wires coming loose (doubt it), and will try to find TDC.
I should be able to tell TDC by looking at the timing marks on the
engine flywheel? (Some genius designed this so that it's only visible
if you stick your head in the fan, but when the engine is off I can do
that.) I'll also check if the spark looks good. And heck, I can squirt
some starter fluid into the carb, just to see if maybe a problem
suddenly appeared there (I have about 1/4 tank of gas, never had a
fuel supply problem before).
Is there something in the engine that might "break" if the wires were
connected up wrong (but it never turned over)? If some rods or valves
or pistons were damaged, I'd hear loud noises? And it might start up,
but run very badly?
Yes, it would have saved a whole lot of trouble if I'd labelled all
the wires fires, before touching the cap.
Thanks, you guys are very encouraging!
Robert
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Ron Mitchell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Robert,
> If everything was working before you changed the cap & rotor and it
> doesn't work with the old cap & rotor on it now, I'd check all of
the other
> wires for something else you might have disconnected from the
distributor,
> coil or control unit. Finding TDC the way Frank suggested would go a
long
> way toward making sure the rotor is pointing to the right #1 wire
and end
> all of that confusion. Then hook a timing light to #1 and see if the
timing
> is close. You should be able to get it close by just cranking, with the
> vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged. Has the distributor been
> loosened at all?
> I have a habit of using wire numbering tape (you can find at home
> centers) to number wires and then draw a diagram of where they go,
before
> disassembling anything. I've been in a similar situation before, it's
> miserable.
>
> Ron
> 96 Coachmen
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