Hmmmm. was going to mention the ballast resistor as a possible issue. My old rig had one maounted to the firewall and I did a tune-up and then spent a long time trying to get the beast started. A mechanically inclined neighbor saw my struggles and mentioned the ballast resistor and said that the old firewall mounted ones have a tendency to die after doing a tune-up. Something about the new plugs and etc creating a higher voltage or resistance (something like that anyway) and causing the thing to burn out. Sure enough,  put in a new one and the beast started right up and ran fine. The other thing I'll mention is the coil wire - - I had one that had slid far enough back in the boot that it just didn't let the spark get to the coil. Pushed it al the way in and problem solved. Sometimes I tend to over complicate things by looking for a major problem when it's really just a simple little thing that I overlooked. Also, if you have any wires going to the coil that have crimp-on connectors,
make sure the wires aren't pulled loose but still stuck in the insulation.
Hope you get this solved so we can all hear the final solution that makes the ol' girl fire up and run.
Jerry

Frank Andthebeans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Just a thought:
Seems to me they used a ballast resister on the primary side of the ign coil
on the 360 back then, I know I have had a couple of strange things go wrong
with them. Maybe you knocked it around a bit when you did the wires and dist
cap. Perhaps you moved of broke a wire off the coil. As you said the truck
ran good or not bad before you got your little hands on it.(keep your sense
of humor)
Recap:
Re and Re # 1 plug, see where the rotor is.
Compression test
Turn the crank balancer and watch the rotor, balancer shouldn't move anymore
then four degrees without moving the rotor.(GM specs)
Check for a strong spark with a ST 125( Delco number)
Make sure you have fuel in the carb.
Hope this helps some how, Happy New Year
Frankandthebeans


>From: "photobuff56" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [classicrv] Re: Dodge Sportsman 360 Ignition Problem
>Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 06:29:20 -0000
>
>
>--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Robert Sheaffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>wrote:
> >
> > I have a 1974 Travel Queen RV which is mounted on the chassis of a
> > Dodge Sportsman, 360 V-8 engine, 2-barrel carb.
> >
> > It has been running fairly well, except for the poor gas mileage
> > (around 7.5). There is some occasional misfiring and backfiring.
> >
> > I decided to replace the spark plug wires to try to improve this.
>With
> > new spark plug wires, I didn't hear any misfiring or backfiring, I
> > just ran it for a few minutes.
> >
> > Then I replaced the distributor cap and rotor. Should be simple,
> > right? But cylinder 1 was NOT marked on the old cap, and in moving
>the
> > wires over, more than one fell off at a time.
> >
> > Not a problem, I thought. I have the shop manual, all that info is
>in
> > there. The cylinder numbers are clearly shown, and the firing order
>is
> > 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 on the V8 engines. I labelled all the wires, and
> > hooked them up in that order, going clockwise from #1 (the manual
>says
> > that the distributor on the 360 engine rotates clockwise). Pin 1 is
> > well-labelled in the new cap.
> >
> > But it doesn't start, just cranks. It used to start up pretty well.
>So
> > what's the problem? Anyone have any ideas?
> >
> >        Robert
>Well guys I have been following this post and this probably won't be
>the answer but.... A long time ago I bought a vehicle that the seller
>told me this about. After buying it he called me to say that he had
>pulled the distributor out a while back and it didn't get put in the
>same as before ....So he rotated the wires off and back onto the cap
>one position. Nice of him to call. I of course pulled the strib and
>installed it correctly and put the wires corectly. I don't think in
>this case it is the prob but hey getting back the basics is what to
>do now. Like getting TDC and making sure that 18436572 is the order
>of the day. By the way if you pull the coil wire off to make sure the
>motor won't fire and then stick your thumb over the hole where the
>number one plug goes you can tap the key until it forces the thumb
>off of the hole hard. It will try to push it off on the exhaust
>stroke but you won't be able to keep it there on the compresion
>stroke. If you do it while watching the timing mark you should be
>able to see the chalk marked line on the balancer come around. Then
>you may have to rotate it back or advance it to the zero mark. Good
>Luck and Happy New Years to all!
>                                              Michael K.
>
>
>



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