Thanks. My current timing scheme looks like this: 1.take a few µS to calculate values for shift registers 2.write bitshift registers (a few µs) 3.turn on the proper anode 4.wait 5ms 5.turn off anode 6.do steps 2-5 but for other tube 7.do steps 2-6 a few hundred times
this works fine with A1A neons with a 100kohm resistor (200kohm makes them a bit "sputtery"). I'll take a look at your page. Now, my only concern is that my DMM only measures around 110 volts between the +voltage supply and the cathode transistors, even though there is 170v between +voltage and ground. I'll have to do some more testing, but it looks like for some reason the transistor collectors are hovering at about 50v... Maybe they just "seem" this way because of the PWM? On Jan 21, 9:20 am, "M.J.Sangster" <[email protected]> wrote: > I have built a clock with 6 IN-14 Nixies. I multiplex 3 sets of 2 > nixies. > > I use 180v with 13K resistors with the following timing (the timing is > conservative and works with 170v, too): > > Mux Timing: > > 1) turn on anode for current nixie(s) (data present on cathodes) > wait 1880 uSec, this is the digit display time, small value will > make the digit dimmer. > > 2) turn off all nixie anodes > wait 96 uSec > > 3) send current digit data to nixies, > wait 72 uSec, go to step (1) > > Works good, no ghosting and good brightness. Also, I use A1A's for > colons with a 200K resistor. I use the anode (Nixie) switch for the > colons so their brightness varies with the Nixies. > > Seehttp://www.coldwarcreations.com/nixieclk3.html for more > information. > > - Michael Sangster -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
