Also, does anyone know the shematics of this supply? (
http://www.google.com/url?sa=D&q=http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NIXIE-TUBE-POWER-SUPPLY-MODULE-CLOCK-2-OUTPUTS-/250871015688%3Fpt%3DUK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL%26hash%3Ditem3a6913e908&usg=AFQjCNEdT5-7ZrIh_yfFzHA8hiagqzmHAQ
)
It is incredible how I yesterday opened an old printer, and found
exactly the same inductors as this one! Anyone knows its inductance?
Thanks

On Oct 9, 6:25 pm, "MrNixie (UK)" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> A couple of points.
>
> You are going to need more than 0.2-0.3 mA to fully light a nixie
> tube. Otherwise, you will see gaps in the numerals.
>
> A camera flash power supply has DREADFUL efficiency, is usually
> designed to work from a 1.5V battery, and does so by pulling HUGE
> currents - often over 1 amp. Here are the reasons why.
>
> Assume you need a 200V power supply, and at about 6 mA. That's 1.2W
> out. The simple circuit found in cameras will be no better than 50%
> efficient, so that's at least 2W in. Even with a fully charged
> battery, that's 2/1.5 OVER ONE AMP in!! so you've got to build a power
> supply capable of delivering over an amp, at one and a half volts,
> just to pamper to your camera circuit. Why bother?
>
> John points out several alternatives; I would further add that I have
> seen small custom-built power supply modules on eBay that will run
> from a much more convenient 12V or thereabouts, and return much better
> efficiencies. If you are wary of building your own, then certainly
> look at one of these:
>
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NIXIE-TUBE-POWER-SUPPLY-MODULE-CLOCK-2-OUTP...
>
> ALSO! A camera flash power supply will be designed to charge a much
> larger capacitor (for the flash) than these custom supplies like the
> ones above, and this is capable of giving you a much bigger BELT when
> you put yourself across that open circuit 330V, than a smaller,
> current limited 180V supply. And, no matter how careful you are,
> sooner or later you will do this! Alas, I know this... :(
>
> Laurence (AKA MrNixie, UK)
>
> On Oct 9, 3:08 am, John Rehwinkel <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > I've just got my IN-14 tubes and started experimenting on my first
> > > nixie project - the clock, of course! For now I am using a disposable
> > > camera as my power supply. Shorted out with an amp meter, it gives a
> > > steady 12.8mA at 330V, which is better than expected.
>
> > More accurately, it pushes 12.8mA through a short at zero volts.  I'm 
> > guessing
> > the 330V is no load.  So in-between, you're getting less than 330 volts at 
> > less
> > than 12.8mA.
>
> > > So my question is; should I continue bothering with this power supply
> > > (should it even be used for 6 tubes) and try to fix my schematics, or
> > > just make my own power supply which I am not so fond of.
>
> > I'm guessing the camera supply just isn't up to the job, sad to say, but 
> > likely.
>
> > So there are a few ways you could proceed.  If there are more where that
> > came from, you could use six camera supplies, one for each tube.  That
> > might work, and would be amusing.  Otherwise, you'd have to come up
> > with the voltage some other way.  The easiest way is probably to buy a
> > ready-made supply like the Tayloredge ones.  They're small, reliable, and
> > very cost effective at $13 apiece, and you don't have to make your own.
>
> > Alternatively, if you're using an AC supply, you can use a transformer in
> > reverse to step-up the voltage, and rectify that.  Three parts (transformer,
> > diode, and capacitor) and you're there (you can steal the capacitor and
> > probably the diode from the camera supply).
>
> > > Can driving nixies at such low voltage and current damage my nixies?
>
> > Yes, running them underdriven like that can lead to cathode poisoning.
> > It can be reversed, but it's disappointing when it happens.
>
> > - John KG4L

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