Many thanks for that explenation, I did not know how to read these. I got my hands on a 100uH inductor of 0.5W for the circuit I posted. Is that enough or should I get one with bigger wattage? Thanks
On Oct 9, 8:17 pm, "MrNixie (UK)" <[email protected]> wrote: > That little simple "555" circuit is fairly standard and basic, and > will work. It wont give top performance, but who cares? Stick closely > to the advised components, particularity for the main FET, switching > diode (NOT a IN4007 clone!) and inductor. Keep the layout reasonably > compact. > > DON'T touch the metal tab of the FET when it is running! I like the > warning: > > "enough energy to potential(LY?) kill a > person should they be connected > between the high voltage output > and ground in the right way, so > be careful when working on this > circuit!" > > I think they meant - "if connected in the WRONG way"! But the warning > stands. > > The Inductor in the other ready-made circuit I mentioned carries the > number "221". This is the same as resistor coding, and in this case is > the value in MicroHenries - 2, 2 and one zero; so 220uH. Anything in > the range 100uH - 330uH will kinda work in these circuits, but needs > to be able to handle the peak current, without saturating. > > On Oct 9, 6:22 pm, daddyvan2005 <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > I bought one of these in the link above and like it. If Lance still sells > > them. I use it for bench testing/proto work. It's adjustable which > > makes it nice for certain apps. John Taylorwww.tayloredge.comhasa real nice > > module that's pretty much plug and play and works real well also > > adjustable. Koswww.kosbo.comalsosells one. In all I found that having one > > for the bench was required because once you start playing with neon your > > hooked. Plus you should be checking those nixies before installing them the > > be sure they actually work. > > > ________________________________ > > From: Imbanon <[email protected]> > > To: neonixie-l <[email protected]> > > Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 10:08 AM > > Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Disposable camera as power supply > > > Thanks for your reply guys! > > > And so I have gave up on my current supply, and decided to make my > > own. I didn't want to make my own as I thought that it will be the > > most expensive option, but I was wrong. > > Seems like all these pre-made supplys are around 20 bucks, a bit less, > > and for that kind of money I can make 5 of > > thesehttp://www.ledsales.com.au/kits/nixie_supply.pdf,andstill have a lot > > of spare parts! > > Does anyone have any experience with these? Are they alright? > > Thanks again! > > > On Oct 9, 6:25 pm, "MrNixie (UK)" > > <[email protected]> > > wrote: > > > A couple of points. > > > > > > You are going to need more than 0.2-0.3 mA to fully light a nixie > > > tube. Otherwise, you will see gaps in the numerals. > > > > > > A camera flash power supply has DREADFUL efficiency, is usually > > > designed to work from a 1.5V battery, and does so by pulling HUGE > > > currents - often over 1 amp. Here are the reasons why. > > > > > > Assume you need a 200V power supply, and at about 6 mA. That's 1.2W > > > out. The simple circuit found in cameras will be no better than 50% > > > efficient, so that's at least 2W in. Even with a fully charged > > > battery, that's 2/1.5 OVER ONE AMP in!! so you've got to build > > a power > > > supply capable of delivering over an amp, at one and a half volts, > > > just to pamper to your camera circuit. Why bother? > > > > > > John points out several alternatives; I would further add that I have > > > seen small custom-built power supply modules on eBay that will run > > > from a much more convenient 12V or thereabouts, and return much better > > > efficiencies. If you are wary of building your own, then certainly > > > look at one of these: > > > > > >http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NIXIE-TUBE-POWER-SUPPLY-MODULE-CLOCK-2-OUTP... > > > > > > ALSO! A camera flash power supply will be designed to charge a much > > > larger capacitor (for the flash) than these custom supplies like the > > > ones above, and this is capable of giving you a much bigger BELT when > > > you put yourself across that open circuit 330V, than a smaller, > > > current limited 180V supply. And, no matter how careful you are, > > > sooner or later you will do this! Alas, I know this... :( > > > > > > Laurence (AKA MrNixie, UK) > > > > > > On Oct 9, 3:08 am, John Rehwinkel <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I've just got my IN-14 tubes and started experimenting > > on my first > > > > > nixie project - the clock, of course! For now I am using a > > disposable > > > > > camera as my power supply. Shorted out with an amp meter, it > > gives a > > > > > steady 12.8mA at 330V, which is better than expected. > > > > > > > More accurately, it pushes 12.8mA through a short at zero volts. > > I'm guessing > > > > the 330V is no load. So in-between, you're getting less than > > 330 volts at less > > > > than 12.8mA. > > > > > > > > So my question is; should I continue bothering with this > > power supply > > > > > (should it even be used for 6 tubes) and try to fix my > > schematics, or > > > > > just make my own power supply which I am not so fond of. > > > > > > > I'm guessing the camera supply just isn't up to the job, > > sad to say, but likely. > > > > > > > So there are a few ways you could proceed. If there are more > > where that > > > > came from, you could use six camera supplies, one for each tube. > > That > > > > might work, and would be amusing. Otherwise, you'd have to > > come up > > > > with the voltage some other way. The easiest way is probably to > > buy a > > > > ready-made supply like the Tayloredge ones. They're small, > > reliable, and > > > > very cost effective at $13 apiece, and you don't have to make > > your own. > > > > > > > Alternatively, if you're using an AC supply, you can use a > > transformer in > > > > reverse to step-up the voltage, and rectify that. Three parts > > (transformer, > > > > diode, and capacitor) and you're there (you can steal the > > capacitor and > > > > probably the diode from the camera supply). > > > > > > > > Can driving nixies at such low voltage and current damage my > > nixies? > > > > > > > Yes, running them underdriven like that can lead to cathode > > poisoning. > > > > It can be reversed, but it's disappointing when it happens. > > > > > > > - John KG4L > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "neonixie-l" group. > > To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > [email protected]. > > For more options, visit this group > > athttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. 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