Hey all

I found some time to make a schematic. It only shows the two 74141,
nixie tubes and anode drivers.
I also tried blanking nixies via 74141. I would have never guessed
that you meant on hex code, as I am doing this on an arduino :)
Blanking nixies with 74141's give me a lot of leaking (or at least I
think thats leaking), so I'm not so sure about using this method. But
I do think that it's maybe possible to divide the leaking to the rest
of the nixies by adding a resistor for each anode, instead of sharing
them. See for yourself in the links.

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?bbx4z4k5vjul56b
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?ym4s96yeusrm9sy

So I guess my next move should be to remove the trimpots, and replace
them with actual resistors for each anode.
But what should I do with the blanking? To be honest, I would leave
the setup as is, because it seems to work fine. But if you guys think
I can do something better to get a longer tube life, I will make
changes to the schematic immediately.

Thanks!

On Mar 19, 12:04 am, Dylan Distasio <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm very interested in hearing more about this module...Are you saying you
> are having this custom manufactured?  If so, how have you found a way to do
> this economically?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 18, 2012 at 6:31 PM, Cobra007 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > For my clock I am designing a module as I am not really a fan to use
> > these types of old TTL logic. It's a 24 pin module that fits into a
> > DIP24 IC socket. It basically mimics the 74141 but has high voltage
> > output mosfets (240V) and the 4 inputs can be latched, so you don't
> > need extra latches as required by the standard 74141. It also offers a
> > blanking input, either by writing 0x0a or using a dedicated pin (which
> > is convenient for PWM dimming). It can be interfaced with MCU or
> > arduino.
>
> > Michel

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