Please take note that I am not using PNP's at all, only NPN's :) On Mar 22, 7:12 pm, Adam Jacobs <[email protected]> wrote: > _MUCH_ better. > > Okay, firstly this design can work - there's nothing fundamentally wrong > with it. Like I said, you'll need to be able to make cathode-side > blanking (74141) work if you're going to stick with only 3 anode drivers. > > 1) Your anode drivers aren't quite right. The resistor on the base of > the NPN should be more like 10k (R1). You're missing the pulldown on the > base as well. Add a 10k between the base of the NPN and GND. The > resistor between the collector of the NPN and the base of the PNP should > be more like 1M. The resistor between the base of the PNP and the > collector of the PNP should be more like 10k. > > 2) The reason that you are getting current leakage with the 74141 is > because your HV supply is too high. Instead of 215v, use 180v. > > -Adam > > On 3/22/2012 11:00 AM, Imbanon wrote: > > > > > > > > > Sorry about that. I thought it was an universal shematic file type, > > 'cause they are all .sch > > > Here's the pic http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?5903q1ur3inc729 > > Cheers > > > On Mar 22, 4:14 pm, Adam Jacobs<[email protected]> wrote: > >> Would you mind converting that schematic to some kind of image file? Is > >> that an eaglecad file? > > >> blanking on the 74141 will cause leakage if the supply voltage is too > >> high. Are you using real 74141's or the russian kind? > >> From that picture, I'm not sure if that is leakage. > > >> -Adam > > >> On 3/22/2012 5:19 AM, Imbanon wrote: > > >>> Hey all > >>> I found some time to make a schematic. It only shows the two 74141, > >>> nixie tubes and anode drivers. > >>> I also tried blanking nixies via 74141. I would have never guessed > >>> that you meant on hex code, as I am doing this on an arduino :) > >>> Blanking nixies with 74141's give me a lot of leaking (or at least I > >>> think thats leaking), so I'm not so sure about using this method. But > >>> I do think that it's maybe possible to divide the leaking to the rest > >>> of the nixies by adding a resistor for each anode, instead of sharing > >>> them. See for yourself in the links. > >>>http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?bbx4z4k5vjul56b > >>>http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?ym4s96yeusrm9sy > >>> So I guess my next move should be to remove the trimpots, and replace > >>> them with actual resistors for each anode. > >>> But what should I do with the blanking? To be honest, I would leave > >>> the setup as is, because it seems to work fine. But if you guys think > >>> I can do something better to get a longer tube life, I will make > >>> changes to the schematic immediately. > >>> Thanks! > >>> On Mar 19, 12:04 am, Dylan Distasio<[email protected]> wrote: > >>>> I'm very interested in hearing more about this module...Are you saying > >>>> you > >>>> are having this custom manufactured? If so, how have you found a way to > >>>> do > >>>> this economically? > >>>> On Sun, Mar 18, 2012 at 6:31 PM, Cobra007<[email protected]> wrote: > >>>>> For my clock I am designing a module as I am not really a fan to use > >>>>> these types of old TTL logic. It's a 24 pin module that fits into a > >>>>> DIP24 IC socket. It basically mimics the 74141 but has high voltage > >>>>> output mosfets (240V) and the 4 inputs can be latched, so you don't > >>>>> need extra latches as required by the standard 74141. It also offers a > >>>>> blanking input, either by writing 0x0a or using a dedicated pin (which > >>>>> is convenient for PWM dimming). It can be interfaced with MCU or > >>>>> arduino. > >>>>> Michel
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