_MUCH_ better.
Okay, firstly this design can work - there's nothing fundamentally wrong
with it. Like I said, you'll need to be able to make cathode-side
blanking (74141) work if you're going to stick with only 3 anode drivers.
1) Your anode drivers aren't quite right. The resistor on the base of
the NPN should be more like 10k (R1). You're missing the pulldown on the
base as well. Add a 10k between the base of the NPN and GND. The
resistor between the collector of the NPN and the base of the PNP should
be more like 1M. The resistor between the base of the PNP and the
collector of the PNP should be more like 10k.
2) The reason that you are getting current leakage with the 74141 is
because your HV supply is too high. Instead of 215v, use 180v.
-Adam
On 3/22/2012 11:00 AM, Imbanon wrote:
Sorry about that. I thought it was an universal shematic file type,
'cause they are all .sch
Here's the pic http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?5903q1ur3inc729
Cheers
On Mar 22, 4:14 pm, Adam Jacobs<[email protected]> wrote:
Would you mind converting that schematic to some kind of image file? Is
that an eaglecad file?
blanking on the 74141 will cause leakage if the supply voltage is too
high. Are you using real 74141's or the russian kind?
From that picture, I'm not sure if that is leakage.
-Adam
On 3/22/2012 5:19 AM, Imbanon wrote:
Hey all
I found some time to make a schematic. It only shows the two 74141,
nixie tubes and anode drivers.
I also tried blanking nixies via 74141. I would have never guessed
that you meant on hex code, as I am doing this on an arduino :)
Blanking nixies with 74141's give me a lot of leaking (or at least I
think thats leaking), so I'm not so sure about using this method. But
I do think that it's maybe possible to divide the leaking to the rest
of the nixies by adding a resistor for each anode, instead of sharing
them. See for yourself in the links.
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?bbx4z4k5vjul56b
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?ym4s96yeusrm9sy
So I guess my next move should be to remove the trimpots, and replace
them with actual resistors for each anode.
But what should I do with the blanking? To be honest, I would leave
the setup as is, because it seems to work fine. But if you guys think
I can do something better to get a longer tube life, I will make
changes to the schematic immediately.
Thanks!
On Mar 19, 12:04 am, Dylan Distasio<[email protected]> wrote:
I'm very interested in hearing more about this module...Are you saying you
are having this custom manufactured? If so, how have you found a way to do
this economically?
On Sun, Mar 18, 2012 at 6:31 PM, Cobra007<[email protected]> wrote:
For my clock I am designing a module as I am not really a fan to use
these types of old TTL logic. It's a 24 pin module that fits into a
DIP24 IC socket. It basically mimics the 74141 but has high voltage
output mosfets (240V) and the 4 inputs can be latched, so you don't
need extra latches as required by the standard 74141. It also offers a
blanking input, either by writing 0x0a or using a dedicated pin (which
is convenient for PWM dimming). It can be interfaced with MCU or
arduino.
Michel
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