There is not much difference in the force and stress produced by the original sockets for the EZ10A/B compared to if you use DSUB crimp (or solder) sockets soldered to a piece of PCB. If you just make sure that you solder the crimp sockets so they flex open in the direction of the centre of the socket, the slit should bee facing along the circle circumference, that way they will still make good contact on all pins. You can also push the crimp sockets onto the EZ10A/B pins before you solder them to the PCB, that way you will have them in the spot where they make the least strain on the pins (this will vary a little bit with each EZ10A/B unless you have a pin straighetener to use). I have compared the original sockets, the ZB13 / TSM-13P, to a few handbuilt sockets that I made a long time ago and I found no big difference. It is quite easy to get problems with the original sockets since the pins snag on the ceramic so you'll have to be careful when pushing down the EZ10A/B even in those sockets. /Martin
On Tuesday, January 15, 2013 5:58:35 PM UTC+1, Tidak Ada wrote: > Sounds nice BUT.... just for a hydrogen filled EZ10A/B it is essential > the pins undergo as less as possible stress by mounting the pins LOOSLY and > movable in the insulator. > I think a sandwich construction, like at those old pertinax sockets, will > fulfil more to that need. > Making a socket, either from thick pertinax or an other thermo hardened > material (Bakelite or an phenolic resin) by use of a CNC driven tool will > make a perfect socket it you can find contacts that have enough difference > in diameter (a collar) to get hold. > Who can help machining the parts ??? > > eric > ------------------------------ > *From:* [email protected] <javascript:> [mailto: > [email protected] <javascript:>] *On Behalf Of *Quixotic Nixotic > *Sent:* dinsdag 15 januari 2013 17:19 > *To:* [email protected] <javascript:> > *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Making tube sockets at home - sort of. > > On 15 Jan 2013, at 15:50, mjrippe wrote: > > In case anyone has NOT heard of 3D printing, you can use it to make almost > any sort of plastic part. One at a time, rather slowly. But for those > unobtainable bits, it is perfect. Some clever fellow has started making > their own tube sockets. Kinda pointless for 7 pin miniatures, but would be > nice for EZ10A sockets! Read about it here: > https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/neonixie-l > > > It seems a bit over time-consuming to me. > > I've made great IN 18 sockets by using the plastic middle of an old > adhesive roll glued around some pins to suit my pin receptacles. Melt some > polymorph in a cup of hot water from the kettle and squidge it into the > roll around the pins. When set, in about a minute, pull the pins out and > put your receptacles in - I used crimp ones from a D socket. > > If you need a mounting flange, that is easy too, just melt some more > polymorph, maybe roll it out flat, reheat one edge a bit and stick it to > the sides of your new socket. Trim to shape with an X-Acto knife or > scalpel. Polymorph will drill quite well. > > John S > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]<javascript:> > . > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected] <javascript:>. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/yHdkp8gqBV0J. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
