It is not the stress during insertion/extraction of the tube, but due to
temperature differences. The bottom of the tube expands or shrinks, warned
me our glass technician. Also spot heating during soldering can be
disastrous.
Consider the hydrogen filling of the tube. It even diffuses trough the glass
! Every extra possibility of micro leakage should be avoided to keep a
reasonable life span of the tube.
 
eric

  _____  

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Dekatron42
Sent: donderdag 17 januari 2013 15:50
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Making tube sockets at home - sort of.


There is not much difference in the force and stress produced by the
original sockets for the EZ10A/B compared to if you use DSUB crimp (or
solder) sockets soldered to a piece of PCB. If you just make sure that you
solder the crimp sockets so they flex open in the direction of the centre of
the socket, the slit should bee facing along the circle circumference, that
way they will still make good contact on all pins. You can also push the
crimp sockets onto the EZ10A/B pins before you solder them to the PCB, that
way you will have them in the spot where they make the least strain on the
pins (this will vary a little bit with each EZ10A/B unless you have a pin
straighetener to use). I have compared the original sockets, the ZB13 /
TSM-13P, to a few handbuilt sockets that I made a long time ago and I found
no big difference. It is quite easy to get problems with the original
sockets since the pins snag on the ceramic so you'll have to be careful when
pushing down the EZ10A/B even in those sockets.
 
/Martin
 

On Tuesday, January 15, 2013 5:58:35 PM UTC+1, Tidak Ada wrote:

Sounds nice BUT.... just for a hydrogen filled EZ10A/B  it is essential the
pins undergo as less as possible stress by mounting the pins LOOSLY and
movable in the insulator.
I think a sandwich construction, like at those old pertinax sockets, will
fulfil more to that need.
Making a socket, either from thick pertinax or an other thermo hardened
material (Bakelite or an phenolic resin) by use of a CNC driven tool will
make a perfect socket it you can find contacts that have enough difference
in diameter (a collar) to get hold.
Who can help machining the parts ???
 
eric
  _____  

From: [email protected] <javascript:>  [mailto:neoni...@
<javascript:> googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Quixotic Nixotic
Sent: dinsdag 15 januari 2013 17:19
To: [email protected] <javascript:> 
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Making tube sockets at home - sort of.


On 15 Jan 2013, at 15:50, mjrippe wrote:



In case anyone has NOT heard of 3D printing, you can use it to make almost
any sort of plastic part.  One at a time, rather slowly.  But for those
unobtainable bits, it is perfect.  Some clever fellow has started making
their own tube sockets.  Kinda pointless for 7 pin miniatures, but would be
nice for EZ10A sockets!  Read about it here:
https://groups.google.com/
<https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/neonixie-l>
forum/#!forum/neonixie-l



It seems a bit over time-consuming to me.


I've made great IN 18 sockets by using the plastic middle of an old adhesive
roll glued around some pins to suit my pin receptacles. Melt some polymorph
in a cup of hot water from the kettle and squidge it into the roll around
the pins. When set, in about a minute, pull the pins out and put your
receptacles in - I used crimp ones from a D socket.


If you need a mounting flange, that is easy too, just melt some more
polymorph, maybe roll it out flat, reheat one edge a bit and stick it to the
sides of your new socket. Trim to shape with an X-Acto knife or scalpel.
Polymorph will drill quite well.


John S


 






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