If you solder the pins like I wrote you will get minimum stress even during 
use, not only during insertion and you can easily protect the pin on the 
EZ10B from the heat if you put a crocodile clamp on the pin you solder as 
that works as a heat sink, you can also use a fan to blow on the pin while 
soldering. Putting a crocodile clamp on the part you are soldering to 
protect it from the heat is a trick usually used to solder heat sensitive 
components or on wires with a plastic cover which tends to shrink away from 
heat.
 
In one old brochure from Elesta they mentioned that they used a special 
type of glass both in the envelope of the dekatron and in the base/pin 
seals to minimise gas leakage, that is probably the reason why their 
EZ10B's work so well after all these years compared to the Z505S and 
similar types.
 
I've never had a EZ10B (nor the EZ10A) break in any of the sockets I built 
nor in the original sockets even though the insertion force has been quite 
hight on the original sockets. I've bought a lot of used EZ10B's on ebay 
with bent pins that I have had to straighen before I could use them in a 
socket, and these too work well.
 
The EZ10A/B seems to have been built a bit more durable than the competing 
dekatrons, but you should of course be careful when inserting them anyway.
 
Another way of making a socket for these is to drill two pieces of FR4 
(without copper), used as top and bottom cover, with holes just large 
enough for the crimp pins to pass through but not for the "bump" you find 
on the crimp pin. Then you drill a third FR4, used as the centre 
piece, with a hole large enough for the "bump" and thick enough for 
the "bump" to be completely covered. Then you put the pins in the bottom 
piece, put the centre piece on and then the top piece. You'll have to have 
holes at either side for either a rivet or screws to keep them together. 
This way you have a socket with freely moving pins and you wont have to 
worry about the forces on the pins. The "bump" is there to keep the pin in 
the D-SUB contact so it doesn't slide out. This is a more complicated 
socket and I only made one before making the solder type, it took to much 
time to make at home. Now with low prices on PCB's professionally 
manufactured you could easily make these three pieces for a very low cost 
and with the diameter of the holes correct for the crimp pins, and with 
correct thickness of each PCB piece.
 
/Martin

Den torsdagen den 17:e januari 2013 kl. 20:57:27 UTC+1 skrev Tidak Ada:

>  It is not the stress during insertion/extraction of the tube, but due to 
> temperature differences. The bottom of the tube expands or shrinks, warned 
> me our glass technician. Also spot heating during soldering can be  
> disastrous.
> Consider the hydrogen filling of the tube. It even diffuses trough the 
> glass ! Every extra possibility of micro leakage should be avoided to keep 
> a reasonable life span of the tube.
>  
> eric
>
>

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