How does ""Use gauge to straighten pins"" sound to you??? Ira.
On 2/9/2014 2:25 PM, Dekatron42 wrote:
Hi All, Today I finished restoring my EZ10/A/B tester that I bought a while ago.It is a small and nice box that makes it possible to test how the EZ10/A/B under real working conditions. The tester is built around a very simple circuit (two circúits in fact, one for EZ10 & EZ10A and one for EZ10B incorporated into one circuit) the circuit for the EZ10B and power supply can be found in the "Elesta technische mitteilungen Die dekadenzählröhre EZ10B nr 17 februar 1961", and the circuit for the EZ10A can be found in the book "Elektronische zählschaltungen" by Konstantin Apel and in the Elesta EZ10/A datasheets.The tester consists of a power supply that can be adjusted so that the working conditions are calibrated, a driving stage which is controlled by a push button, a switch which selects either EZ10 & EZ10A or EZ10B and an Anode current potentiometer that sets the operating point. All of these parts come straight out of the Elesta information except that the power supply has been modified to only use one high power wire wound potentiometer for setting the voltage used for the guide bias and driving stage. This then results in that the anode voltage for the EZ10 is just added on top of this voltage by the second winding and not regulated at all, so it gets a bit higher than the 580V in Elesta information.After having tested all of the components I decided to replace almost all of them, the tester was moldy and had a foul smell to it when I got it so it had not been stored well over the years, this had affected all of the resistors and capacitors badly as well as the outer tape layer of the transformer. Some resistors were more than 40% out of tolerance and a few capacitors were either working better as high ohms resistors and some were 600% out of tolerance! After having replaced them it worked like designed.To test an EZ10/A/B you turn the Anode current control to the left stop, select the type of EZ10 you want to test with the EZ10/A | EZ10B switch, then set the Calibrate/Test switch in the Calibrate position and turn on the power. Now you adjust the voltage control so that the needle hits the red dot at 1.6mA. Then you can put your EZ10/A/B in the socket and switch to the Test position and adjust the Anode current control to the test currents: 1.1mA, 1.3mA or 1.6mA for the EZ10/A or 1.3mA, 1.6mA or 1.8mA for the EZ10B and the push the Key switch so that the glow is chased around the tube twice - just as it says at the end of the label taped to the front panel!There is really nothing magical about this tester but the information on how the EZ10/A/B's were tested is very nice to have and also the pin straightener on the front is very good to have.I've tested a bunch of my EZ10A/B's now and found two flaky EZ10B's, one turned out to have a loose pin that got stuck in the test socket! No wonder that one didn't count properly!I've included a few photos and also the schematic plus the text at the front if anyone wants to have a go at the missing pieces where the label has been torn. I think that the first word might be either "Keep" or "Use" and the last word "pin" but I haven't been able to figure out more even though I have been trying to push the torn pieces around./Martin --You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected].To post to this group, send an email to [email protected].To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3addb724-47b5-42a9-9cb4-6a31ec6adae9%40googlegroups.com.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
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