Hi,

Thanks!

The text fits perfectly!

The schematic is in the PDF-file, fourth file named "Elesta EZ10A-B 
Tester.pdf".

/Martin

On Sunday, 9 February 2014 23:44:08 UTC+1, I wrote:
>
> P.S. very nice restoration job.  Where is the schematic that you say is 
> posted. I do NOT see it.   Thanks,   Ira. 
>
>
>
> On 2/9/2014 2:25 PM, Dekatron42 wrote: 
> > Hi All, 
> > 
> > Today I finished restoring my EZ10/A/B tester that I bought a while ago. 
> > 
> > It is a small and nice box that makes it possible to test how the 
> > EZ10/A/B under real working conditions. The tester is built around a 
> > very simple circuit (two circúits in fact, one for EZ10 & EZ10A and 
> > one for EZ10B incorporated into one circuit) the circuit for the EZ10B 
> > and power supply can be found in the "Elesta technische mitteilungen 
> > Die dekadenzählröhre EZ10B nr 17 februar 1961", and the circuit for 
> > the EZ10A can be found in the book "Elektronische zählschaltungen" by 
> > Konstantin Apel and in the Elesta EZ10/A datasheets. 
> > 
> > The tester consists of a power supply that can be adjusted so that the 
> > working conditions are calibrated, a driving stage which is controlled 
> > by a push button, a switch which selects either EZ10 & EZ10A or EZ10B 
> > and an Anode current potentiometer that sets the operating point. All 
> > of these parts come straight out of the Elesta information except that 
> > the power supply has been modified to only use one high power wire 
> > wound potentiometer for setting the voltage used for the guide bias 
> > and driving stage. This then results in that the anode voltage for the 
> > EZ10 is just added on top of this voltage by the second winding and 
> > not regulated at all, so it gets a bit higher than the 580V in Elesta 
> > information. 
> > 
> > After having tested all of the components I decided to replace almost 
> > all of them, the tester was moldy and had a foul smell to it when I 
> > got it so it had not been stored well over the years, this had 
> > affected all of the resistors and capacitors badly as well as the 
> > outer tape layer of the transformer. Some resistors were more than 40% 
> > out of tolerance and a few capacitors were either working better as 
> > high ohms resistors and some were 600% out of tolerance! After having 
> > replaced them it worked like designed. 
> > 
> > To test an EZ10/A/B you turn the Anode current control to the left 
> > stop, select the type of EZ10 you want to test with the EZ10/A | EZ10B 
> > switch, then set the Calibrate/Test switch in the Calibrate position 
> > and turn on the power. Now you adjust the voltage control so that the 
> > needle hits the red dot at 1.6mA. Then you can put your EZ10/A/B in 
> > the socket and switch to the Test position and adjust the Anode 
> > current control to the test currents: 1.1mA, 1.3mA or 1.6mA for the 
> > EZ10/A or 1.3mA, 1.6mA or 1.8mA for the EZ10B and the push the Key 
> > switch so that the glow is chased around the tube twice - just as it 
> > says at the end of the label taped to the front panel! 
> > 
> > There is really nothing magical about this tester but the information 
> > on how the EZ10/A/B's were tested is very nice to have and also the 
> > pin straightener on the front is very good to have. 
> > 
> > I've tested a bunch of my EZ10A/B's now and found two flaky EZ10B's, 
> > one turned out to have a loose pin that got stuck in the test socket! 
> > No wonder that one didn't count properly! 
> > 
> > I've included a few photos and also the schematic plus the text at the 
> > front if anyone wants to have a go at the missing pieces where the 
> > label has been torn. I think that the first word might be either 
> > "Keep" or "Use" and the last word "pin" but I haven't been able to 
> > figure out more even though I have been trying to push the torn pieces 
> > around. 
> > 
> > /Martin 
> > 
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