Something I want to note about how I used a heatsink; I epoxied it to the 
tops of the cases of M1 & U1; traditionally you'd bolt it to the back of 
the component but at the time I couldn't figure out a better way, and I had 
heatsink epoxy, so I just plastered it to the tops of the two components.  
It's been like that ever since I built the clock, and never did it get so 
hot that you couldn't touch it.  Warm, yes.

I don't know how it could have become conductive across the cases of M1 & 
U1.. if it did, that's a neat trick.  But removing it certainly seems to 
have made some difference.

Using a laser temperature probe, M1 seems fine.. but U1 definitely seems 
cranky.. and it's heating the board up all around that entire end to 
~110F.  Again, I never noticed it getting this hot.

To answer Johnk's question; the heatsink and epoxy weren't touching 
anything metallic, and I originally added it because I thought M1 & U1 were 
getting pretty warm from the start when I built it, and figured it wouldn't 
hurt to add it.  But maybe over time.. it started to conduct between them 
somehow.  I don't know.

Jon; thanks for that info. I'll try one of the 7805 alternatives you 
mentioned.

Nick; I'll drag out my scope and see if it even still works, and see if I 
can't check the 7805 with it.  I might have a question or two on using the 
scope. :D

So far, right now with a little fan blowing over the M1/U1 area.. the whole 
thing is keeping cool.  Barely running above 90F anywhere I check.  If I 
turn off the fan, it shoots up past 120F. I turned the fan back on at that 
point.

Niek; I re-enabled the leading zero, and still see the same thing.  In fact 
when going through the settings, I was able to catch the attached pic of 
the right most tube showing what was in the next-to-left tube.  So it seems 
to go both ways.

Kiran







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