John, Thanks for the advice. I definitely had the polarity of the switches wrong in my head. Unfortunately, I am still getting no joy out of the tubes. After a long power off, they will flash briefly when brought up, so I am fairly confident that the micro is alive. Voltages look good, and I am seeing clean pulses on the i2c lines... I tried poking the brightness register as in the datasheet, just in case, as well.
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