For copyright reasons I wont post them; the seller emailed them to me within 24 hours so if you dont have them in your kit, be sure to contact them so they know about the problem.
On Saturday, May 22, 2021 at 12:22:17 AM UTC-7 iavine wrote: > Any chance the documentation could be shared to all? > > Thanks Ian > > On 22 May 2021, at 04:14, Bill Stanley <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > OK, that was quick. Opened the box, all parts appeared to be in good > shape, but no documentation of any kind. If I could prevail on the other > builders for a copy of the instructions/schematics, it would speed up my > build. > > Thanks; > -Bill- > > > On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 6:23:56 PM UTC-7 Bill Stanley wrote: > >> Toss another kit on the barbie.... >> >> My kit arrived today so I will be building it over the weekend. Watching >> the comments closely. >> >> -Bill- >> >> >> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 5:14:24 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote: >> >>> I have an Aneng UT61e; cheap but quite good. One of my scopes has a pair >>> of 100x probes that lets me look at a few kV, but I was too lazy to bring >>> it up today. If I run into problems I'll post some screenshots. >>> >>> After installing the diff-amp transistors and Q1, current-drain >>> increased to 360mA. >>> >>> I suggest you bench-test your power-supply board by itself first; >>> disconnect all cables, and jumper J5-4 and J5-5 together to enable the HV >>> supply. Make sure all generated voltages are correct, especially the 300V >>> supply (should be around 305V per the instructions). >>> >>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 4:10:55 PM UTC-7 John Snow wrote: >>> >>>> Paying full attention - what model DMM do you have if you can't >>>> directly connect it? I have an 87V I'm happy to connect as it's rated for >>>> 1KV. >>>> >>>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:38:27 PM UTC+1 gregebert wrote: >>>> >>>>> UPDATE 1: I built the power supply/driver board and completed some >>>>> basic testing. I installed all components EXCEPT the transistors for the >>>>> diff-amp that drives the CRT. The standby current at 12V is zero. The HV >>>>> supply can be enabled by grounding the POWER_ON signal; that causes the >>>>> inverter to run and the current is 170mA. The neon bulb is on and it's >>>>> supply is 306V; the +5 and -5 supplies also work. The filament supply >>>>> voltage on my scope is about 500kHz, somewhat sinusoidal, and about 17V >>>>> pk-pk, which is about 6.3 Vrms for a pure sinusoid. The HV is beyond the >>>>> range of my DMM so I had to put a 10meg resistor in-series to double the >>>>> range (inaccurately, because it's a 10% resistor) and measure around 1270 >>>>> VDC. >>>>> >>>>> Next step is to build the other board. Stay tuned. >>>>> >>>>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 7:34:52 AM UTC-7 John Snow wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I've been checking over solderjoints, hoping to find a Q or U with a >>>>>> solderbridge, no luck. >>>>>> >>>>>> Ah, I hadn't made the connection - I found your build guide before, >>>>>> it's what made me decide to order one. It's been useful for making A or >>>>>> B >>>>>> comparions for anything standing out. >>>>>> >>>>>> I've also been checking over the circuitboard hoping to find a Q or U >>>>>> inverted, but they're all following the soldermask guides. >>>>>> >>>>>> There's no breakout for and ground VCC_300 to easily probe? >>>>>> On Thursday, May 20, 2021 at 8:10:06 AM UTC+1 Paolo Cravero wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> John, >>>>>>> pictures of my build are here: >>>>>>> https://ik1zyw.blogspot.com/2020/10/kit-oscilloscope-clock-8sj31j-review-3.html >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The code on the HV board is the same. I think I reversed a 79Lxx, >>>>>>> but the smell of it burning was too obvious and I cannot tell what the >>>>>>> effect was on the CRT. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I do get intermittent failure probably caused by a cold joint at a >>>>>>> ground point that was not designed with thermal relief and it took me a >>>>>>> while to solder. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Paolo >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Thu, May 20, 2021 at 12:49 AM John Snow <[email protected]> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hi Paolo, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> no filament glow after one minute powered on, >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> both fuses continuity checked, they've not blown >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I'm getting 60V across the indicator bulb. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Which voltage regulator did you reverse? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, >>>>>>>> send an email to [email protected]. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3f6e2a4a-ed6d-485d-9ccc-a0dfc157b451n%40googlegroups.com >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3f6e2a4a-ed6d-485d-9ccc-a0dfc157b451n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>>>>> . >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > > To view this discussion on the web, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/cccf50e1-f8bd-4b6e-a5ea-98e05e945f7cn%40googlegroups.com > > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/cccf50e1-f8bd-4b6e-a5ea-98e05e945f7cn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. 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