Thanks everyone for the hints, I'll look more closely at the HV - I'm a bit 
shy about measuring as I don't have a meter that will go to -1300v for the 
bright.

- Gary

On Tuesday, October 26, 2021 at 3:17:49 PM UTC-4 Bartek Ogryz wrote:

> I'm not familiar with that project and that circuit, but based on my 
> experience in CRT TV repairs, if you have a proper blanking signal, 
> something must be wrong with HV as Tristan said.
> Grid1 - negative voltage on this grid allows electrons to flow (brighter 
> picture), 0V blocks them (darkness). This grid can be driven by the 
> blanking signal,
> Grid2 - is the screen grid, high voltage accelerates the electrons and 
> brightens the screen. If that voltage is too high, it can "force" electrons 
> to flow, regardless of the Grid1 voltage.
> Chceck the main power supply first - if it's voltage is too high, all HV 
> voltages will also be too high.
> wtorek, 26 października 2021 o 05:02:21 UTC+2 Tristan napisał(a):
>
>> The brightness pot needing to be turned right up still suggests that you 
>> have a problem with grid voltage control. I'd expect to see some higher 
>> frequencies much higher than 60Hz on the BLNK- signal as well though. I'd 
>> be surprised if the problem was in the supply sections for the cathode or 
>> anode given that it is mostly working in your photo but there could be an 
>> issue with the specific section of the supply dedicated to the grid and it 
>> is referenced to the cathode. Although you have now replaced most of the 
>> potentially offending components unless you have an open winding on the 
>> transformer. You could check the resistance across pins 4,5 and 6 of the 
>> transformer. I'd expect them all to read fairly low.
>> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021 at 10:20:26 AM UTC+10 GEK wrote:
>>
>>> Ok, so I'm stumped (again)...
>>>
>>> I have replaced D35-38, C52, C53, C54, C55, Q1, C51 and U17.  
>>> R67, F68, R69, R70 and R71 measure correctly in circuit.
>>> I've confirmed pulsing on the BLNK- signal at 60hz
>>> I've also swapped U5 (74HC74) and U4 (74HC151).
>>> I've swapped the CRT.
>>>
>>> Curiously I need to have the Bright potentiometer (R11) at maximum to 
>>> get an image.
>>> Could something in the High Voltage Supply be causing problems with the 
>>> blanking?
>>>
>>> On Thursday, October 21, 2021 at 3:05:10 PM UTC-4 Paul Andrews wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hah yes. I have one of its brethren that is even more 'eclectic'.
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 8:04:03 PM UTC-4 Terry S wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> That may just be one of the worst PCB layouts I've ever seen.
>>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 8:33:41 AM UTC-5 martin martin wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Here's a simple one
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://www.tindie.com/products/howchon/osc45-oscilloscope-clock-kit-for-many-crt-types/
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ~
>>>>>> *[email protected]*
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 4:16 AM GEK <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Will do, Hopefully parts will be here by Friday.  I may try and 
>>>>>>> shotgun D35-38 and C52-53 before then as I should have spares around 
>>>>>>> here.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Finger's crossed!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> - Gary
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 1:19:58 AM UTC-4 Tristan wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hi Gary,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> That's a bit odd. While I'm no EE I would have expected that 
>>>>>>>> removing U17 would have blanked the display if the rest of the circuit 
>>>>>>>> was 
>>>>>>>> working correctly. It looks Q13 should be conducting without U17 
>>>>>>>> fitted and 
>>>>>>>> the grid should become more negative with respect to the cathode to 
>>>>>>>> ensure 
>>>>>>>> cutoff. I think you may need to look at the D35-38 and C52 & C53.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> - Tristan
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 12:42:53 PM UTC+10 GEK wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Tristan -
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks for those hints.  the BLNK signal is pulsing at 60hz, and I 
>>>>>>>>> swapped Q13 without any change.  I also socketed U17 (6N137) while 
>>>>>>>>> waiting 
>>>>>>>>> for a replacement to arrive.  Removing U17 from the circuit leaves 
>>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>>> display unchanged, so it does appear that the blanking circuit is the 
>>>>>>>>> culprit.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I'll swap U17 once it arrives - and if that doesn't fix things 
>>>>>>>>> start shotgunning the passives.  
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks again for the guidance, very appreciated!
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> - Gary  
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 10:04:24 PM UTC-4 Tristan wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Also the voltage between the cathode and the blanking section 
>>>>>>>>>> should be checked (I.e. the voltage across C51) and R65 and R67 
>>>>>>>>>> should be 
>>>>>>>>>> checked (or potentially replaced along with C51 if shotgunning it). 
>>>>>>>>>> The 
>>>>>>>>>> rest of the high voltage supply appears to be working.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> - Tristan
>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 11:50:56 AM UTC+10 Tristan 
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I agree. The blanking is not working and as a result the beam is 
>>>>>>>>>>> also faintly visible as it moves quickly between the characters as 
>>>>>>>>>>> well 
>>>>>>>>>>> drawing the arcs. It would be a good idea to check the BLNK signal 
>>>>>>>>>>> on a 
>>>>>>>>>>> scope and at least see that is is toggling but my money would be on 
>>>>>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>>>>>> analogue blanking section. Given the other side of the optoisolator 
>>>>>>>>>>> in the 
>>>>>>>>>>> blanking section is at a fairly high negative voltage potential (as 
>>>>>>>>>>> this 
>>>>>>>>>>> reduces the need for the deflection amps to handle higher voltages) 
>>>>>>>>>>> you 
>>>>>>>>>>> will need to be careful when probing around there but I would start 
>>>>>>>>>>> by 
>>>>>>>>>>> checking the voltages across C54 and C55 (as long as you are 
>>>>>>>>>>> confident 
>>>>>>>>>>> doing so safely with the HV potential to ground). The correct 
>>>>>>>>>>> voltages 
>>>>>>>>>>> aren't specified on the schematic but they will be based on the 
>>>>>>>>>>> grid cutoff 
>>>>>>>>>>> voltage of the tube. If you wanted to avoid probing while the clock 
>>>>>>>>>>> is on 
>>>>>>>>>>> I'd be inclined to shotgun replace that section starting with the 
>>>>>>>>>>> power 
>>>>>>>>>>> supply diodes, caps and Q13 and then U17 and finally the passives 
>>>>>>>>>>> and see 
>>>>>>>>>>> how you go.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> - Tristan
>>>>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 4:24:11 PM UTC+10 iavine wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> From what I remember:
>>>>>>>>>>>> the characters are generated from circles, ellipses or lines 
>>>>>>>>>>>> which in turn are created using sun or cosine waveforms
>>>>>>>>>>>> To make a character the beam is blanked for certain parts eg C 
>>>>>>>>>>>> is a circle with a bit cut out. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks like the blanking is not working as you’ve got a lot of 
>>>>>>>>>>>> circles and ellipses there. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks cool though
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Cheers
>>>>>>>>>>>> Ian V
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On 19 Oct 2021, at 06:08, Mac Doktor <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Oct 18, 2021, at 7:53 PM, Gary Kaufman <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I've now got a stable, but scrambled display (see pic's).  I 
>>>>>>>>>>>> think I have a problem with the shape generators but would 
>>>>>>>>>>>> appreciate any 
>>>>>>>>>>>> help or suggestions you could offer.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Nah, that's just Cyrillic Neu Sans.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
>>>>>>>>>>>> "The Mac Doctor"
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> "If only you could see what I've seen with your eyes."—Roy 
>>>>>>>>>>>> Batty, *Blade Runner*
>>>>>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3FBEDB26-E97C-44E2-B088-BDA7DAE4A020%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>>>>>>
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