I'm getting approximately:
Astig         +124v
Focus/A2  -852v
Cathode/Bright    -1210v
Grid           -1262v

The manual suggests that the Brightness has about -1300v, focus about -900v 
and Astig +300v
I can adjust the Astig from 0 - 240 but the image is sharpest at 124v.

- Gary

On Wednesday, October 27, 2021 at 10:48:16 AM UTC-4 GEK wrote:

> I probably do have a 10meg resistor down in my cellar, time to dig.  I 
> wasn't sure if I'd need to create an actual voltage divider with 2 
> resistors/ground wire so that's helpful.  I'd hate to destroy a Fluke...
>
> On Wednesday, October 27, 2021 at 1:06:19 AM UTC-4 gregebert wrote:
>
>> Most DMMs have 10Meg input impedance, so you can put a 10meg resistor 
>> in-series with your meter, and measure double the voltage. It wont be 
>> exact, but pretty close. If you really need an exact measurement, then 
>> measure a stable lower voltage without the resistor, then again with it. 
>> Dividing those 2 measurements will give you a ratio close to 2.0, and you 
>> can use that when measuring your high voltage.
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021 at 8:40:54 PM UTC-7 GEK wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks everyone for the hints, I'll look more closely at the HV - I'm a 
>>> bit shy about measuring as I don't have a meter that will go to -1300v for 
>>> the bright.
>>>
>>> - Gary
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021 at 3:17:49 PM UTC-4 Bartek Ogryz wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm not familiar with that project and that circuit, but based on my 
>>>> experience in CRT TV repairs, if you have a proper blanking signal, 
>>>> something must be wrong with HV as Tristan said.
>>>> Grid1 - negative voltage on this grid allows electrons to flow 
>>>> (brighter picture), 0V blocks them (darkness). This grid can be driven by 
>>>> the blanking signal,
>>>> Grid2 - is the screen grid, high voltage accelerates the electrons and 
>>>> brightens the screen. If that voltage is too high, it can "force" 
>>>> electrons 
>>>> to flow, regardless of the Grid1 voltage.
>>>> Chceck the main power supply first - if it's voltage is too high, all 
>>>> HV voltages will also be too high.
>>>> wtorek, 26 października 2021 o 05:02:21 UTC+2 Tristan napisał(a):
>>>>
>>>>> The brightness pot needing to be turned right up still suggests that 
>>>>> you have a problem with grid voltage control. I'd expect to see some 
>>>>> higher 
>>>>> frequencies much higher than 60Hz on the BLNK- signal as well though. I'd 
>>>>> be surprised if the problem was in the supply sections for the cathode or 
>>>>> anode given that it is mostly working in your photo but there could be an 
>>>>> issue with the specific section of the supply dedicated to the grid and 
>>>>> it 
>>>>> is referenced to the cathode. Although you have now replaced most of the 
>>>>> potentially offending components unless you have an open winding on the 
>>>>> transformer. You could check the resistance across pins 4,5 and 6 of the 
>>>>> transformer. I'd expect them all to read fairly low.
>>>>> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021 at 10:20:26 AM UTC+10 GEK wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Ok, so I'm stumped (again)...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have replaced D35-38, C52, C53, C54, C55, Q1, C51 and U17.  
>>>>>> R67, F68, R69, R70 and R71 measure correctly in circuit.
>>>>>> I've confirmed pulsing on the BLNK- signal at 60hz
>>>>>> I've also swapped U5 (74HC74) and U4 (74HC151).
>>>>>> I've swapped the CRT.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Curiously I need to have the Bright potentiometer (R11) at maximum to 
>>>>>> get an image.
>>>>>> Could something in the High Voltage Supply be causing problems with 
>>>>>> the blanking?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, October 21, 2021 at 3:05:10 PM UTC-4 Paul Andrews wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hah yes. I have one of its brethren that is even more 'eclectic'.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 8:04:03 PM UTC-4 Terry S wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> That may just be one of the worst PCB layouts I've ever seen.
>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 8:33:41 AM UTC-5 martin martin 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Here's a simple one
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> https://www.tindie.com/products/howchon/osc45-oscilloscope-clock-kit-for-many-crt-types/
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> ~
>>>>>>>>> *[email protected]*
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 4:16 AM GEK <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Will do, Hopefully parts will be here by Friday.  I may try and 
>>>>>>>>>> shotgun D35-38 and C52-53 before then as I should have spares around 
>>>>>>>>>> here.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Finger's crossed!
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> - Gary
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 1:19:58 AM UTC-4 Tristan wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Gary,
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> That's a bit odd. While I'm no EE I would have expected that 
>>>>>>>>>>> removing U17 would have blanked the display if the rest of the 
>>>>>>>>>>> circuit was 
>>>>>>>>>>> working correctly. It looks Q13 should be conducting without U17 
>>>>>>>>>>> fitted and 
>>>>>>>>>>> the grid should become more negative with respect to the cathode to 
>>>>>>>>>>> ensure 
>>>>>>>>>>> cutoff. I think you may need to look at the D35-38 and C52 & C53.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> - Tristan
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 12:42:53 PM UTC+10 GEK wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Tristan -
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks for those hints.  the BLNK signal is pulsing at 60hz, 
>>>>>>>>>>>> and I swapped Q13 without any change.  I also socketed U17 (6N137) 
>>>>>>>>>>>> while 
>>>>>>>>>>>> waiting for a replacement to arrive.  Removing U17 from the 
>>>>>>>>>>>> circuit leaves 
>>>>>>>>>>>> the display unchanged, so it does appear that the blanking circuit 
>>>>>>>>>>>> is the 
>>>>>>>>>>>> culprit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I'll swap U17 once it arrives - and if that doesn't fix things 
>>>>>>>>>>>> start shotgunning the passives.  
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks again for the guidance, very appreciated!
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> - Gary  
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 10:04:24 PM UTC-4 Tristan wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Also the voltage between the cathode and the blanking section 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> should be checked (I.e. the voltage across C51) and R65 and R67 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> should be 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> checked (or potentially replaced along with C51 if shotgunning 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> it). The 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> rest of the high voltage supply appears to be working.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> - Tristan
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, October 20, 2021 at 11:50:56 AM UTC+10 Tristan 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I agree. The blanking is not working and as a result the beam 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is also faintly visible as it moves quickly between the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> characters as well 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> drawing the arcs. It would be a good idea to check the BLNK 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> signal on a 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> scope and at least see that is is toggling but my money would be 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> on the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> analogue blanking section. Given the other side of the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> optoisolator in the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> blanking section is at a fairly high negative voltage potential 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (as this 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> reduces the need for the deflection amps to handle higher 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> voltages) you 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> will need to be careful when probing around there but I would 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> start by 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> checking the voltages across C54 and C55 (as long as you are 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> confident 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> doing so safely with the HV potential to ground). The correct 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> voltages 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> aren't specified on the schematic but they will be based on the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> grid cutoff 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> voltage of the tube. If you wanted to avoid probing while the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> clock is on 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'd be inclined to shotgun replace that section starting with 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the power 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> supply diodes, caps and Q13 and then U17 and finally the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> passives and see 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> how you go.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> - Tristan
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 4:24:11 PM UTC+10 iavine 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From what I remember:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the characters are generated from circles, ellipses or lines 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which in turn are created using sun or cosine waveforms
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To make a character the beam is blanked for certain parts eg 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> C is a circle with a bit cut out. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks like the blanking is not working as you’ve got a lot 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of circles and ellipses there. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks cool though
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Cheers
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Ian V
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 19 Oct 2021, at 06:08, Mac Doktor <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Oct 18, 2021, at 7:53 PM, Gary Kaufman <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I've now got a stable, but scrambled display (see pic's).  I 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> think I have a problem with the shape generators but would 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> appreciate any 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> help or suggestions you could offer.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Nah, that's just Cyrillic Neu Sans.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> "The Mac Doctor"
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> "If only you could see what I've seen with your eyes."—Roy 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Batty, *Blade Runner*
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/3FBEDB26-E97C-44E2-B088-BDA7DAE4A020%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/00c69936-4f04-4a88-8343-f2f7d860135fn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
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>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>

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