All good points.

"The 2 diodes on the HV series parts  (CMOS) are actually parasitic devices 
that are part of how the IC is manufactured."

That's part of the reason I give the HV5812 the hairy eyeball. At least in 
the ULN the diode is there as part of the design, specifically for 
inductive loads. I *know* it's going to be OK, but... I'm probably 
retrofitting a justification to a decision I made for other reasons: I'm a 
cheapskate and I can get the ULNs from a dozen competing suppliers.

:D
On Saturday, 8 March 2025 at 09:56:05 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:

> All good, though the ULN parts are bipolar devices, so there should not be 
> any fear of them getting damaged by over voltage, unless it's an extreme 
> over voltage that punctures the field oxide (way, WAY thicker than gate 
> oxide in MOS devices).
>
> The 2 diodes on the HV series parts  (CMOS) are actually parasitic devices 
> that are part of how the IC is manufactured. They provide ESD protection as 
> long as there is some sort of path between VPP and GND, and they will 
> protect you from inductive loads, though I don't expect a lot of Ldi/dt on 
> those parts because they are rather low current compared to the ULN devices.
>
> I think a zener clamp on VPP is a good idea because it will rapidly 
> bleed-off any excess voltage better than resistors. However, the zener wont 
> bleed-off voltage to zero so I usually put a 1-10Meg resistor across them. 
> On my clocks I put bleeder resistors from every power supply to chassis GND 
> to protect from any potential ESD and to ensure every supply gets fully 
> discharged when powered-off, and stays fully discharged. I've only had 1 
> Raspberry Pi fail, presumably from ESD, because it had an unknown history 
> from the person who gave me several of them.
>
> On Saturday, March 8, 2025 at 3:26:00 PM UTC+7 Ian Sparkes wrote:
>
>> I started using ULN series devices during the supply chain problems after 
>> Covid and won't be going back. Many "specialist" parts were not in stock 
>> and so I decided to use "jelly bean" parts with multiple suppliers. A 
>> driver circuit with ULN2003 or ULN2008 with appropriate clamping works 
>> well. I clamp to 68V, and while this is above the specification for the ULN 
>> device, I have still to see a single failure after many hundred units sold.
>>
>> Many people think that because you have 170V or whatever across the tube 
>> that the driver has to stand this. This is not right. The tube digit has 
>> two modes: off or on. When the digit is off, there is practically no 
>> potential across driver because there is no current flowing. When it is on, 
>> you're pulling the cathode to ground and it has practically no potential 
>> across the driver.
>>
>> The reason that the above statement is not quite true and the reason 
>> therefore for the clamp is to sink parasitic currents between a lit digit 
>> and the unlit ones. If you don't do this, you can get way out of spec 
>> voltages at the cathodes and this causes the output stage on the driver to 
>> break down and let the tiny currents through. It rarely breaks the device, 
>> but the display is "foggy".
>>
>> The principle for the HV5812 is the same. In this case you have to take 
>> the VPP pin to some voltage that will not cause the digit to fire, but will 
>> also drop the parasitic current via the body diode of the top MOSFET in the 
>> output stage to VPP. The red is the path when the digit is on, the green is 
>> the path for the parasitic current to VPP when the digit is off.
>>
>> [image: Screenshot 2025-03-08 at 09.17.21.png]
>>
>> I've seen people just using a potential divider for the derivation of 
>> VPP, but I think I would prefer a Zener clamp. 
>>
>> Having said all that, if you want a direct drive and don't want to go 
>> full design nerd, the HV5622 and HV5530 drivers are dead easy to use and 
>> give good results with little effort.
>> On Monday, 3 March 2025 at 21:46:45 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:
>>
>>> Similar here, except I use the HV5530 which is rated for 300V. I 
>>> strongly discourage using zener diodes, or the nixie-tube itself, to 
>>> drop-down the voltage to CMOS parts, because even the tiniest amount of 
>>> leakage thru the diode/nixie will cause the voltage drop to be less than 
>>> expected, and overstress the CMOS device. You could use an 
>>> appropriately-sized bleeder resistor to ground, but it's still not 
>>> rock-solid. Another approach is to use a zener as a clamp at each output 
>>> but that is wasteful because it requires 1 zener per pin.
>>>
>>> On the other hand, if you are using bipolar parts, such as NPN 
>>> transistors or 7400-series TTL parts, exceeding the voltage is OK as long 
>>> as the current is limited to a few uA or less. Bipolar devices do not have 
>>> oxide-insulated structures like CMOS, so they are not inherently destroyed 
>>> by over-voltage.
>>>
>>> On Monday, March 3, 2025 at 11:39:00 AM UTC-8 newxito wrote:
>>>
>>>> I use the HV5622, which goes up to 220 V, I think there is also a PLCC 
>>>> version. The disadvantages are the price and that it should  be operated 
>>>> with 12V according to spec. However, I never had any problems using the 
>>>> chip with 5V. 
>>>> JBro63 schrieb am Montag, 3. März 2025 um 19:02:56 UTC+1:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>
>>>>> Group noob here, about to start build on a few different types of 
>>>>> display using Nixie tubes and ESP32.
>>>>>
>>>>> Planning to use K155ID1 initially (as I have a bunch) with some IN-12 
>>>>> and IN14 tubes but want to also try HV driver such as the 5812 or 5530 so 
>>>>> would welcome any comment on which is the best one to go for or an 
>>>>> alternative. I don't intend to multiplex. Any driver would need to be DIP 
>>>>> or PLCC.
>>>>>
>>>>> Have spent many hours looking at the schematics and designs of others, 
>>>>> I'm grasping the basics but one frustration and evident gap in my 
>>>>> knowledge 
>>>>> is how to pick / calculate the correct component and its size or rating 
>>>>> for 
>>>>> anything other than the most basic circuit.
>>>>>
>>>>> For example, with a 180v supply, calculating the anode resistor for a 
>>>>> tube based on the datasheet is straight forward enough as the maintaining 
>>>>> voltage and current are known.
>>>>>
>>>>> When looking at something like the HV5812, many seem to use a 60 or 
>>>>> 70V zener diode with a resistor to keep below the max for the chip but 
>>>>> how 
>>>>> do you determine the current needed for the driver, diode and load to be 
>>>>> able to calculate the current limiting resistor? The diode datasheet is 
>>>>> simple enough but I'm lost with the sheet for the HV5812.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>>

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