I would just add to this that in my experience with the Series II's that I have worked on, many of the physically larger contacts appear to have questionable soldering. This would apply mainly to the pots and male Molex headers. My read on this is that the soldering irons that were used to manufacture the boards were a bit on the small side. This would have made them okay for soldering resistors, caps, IC sockets etc. but not so good for the big stuff.
    If you have doubts about a particular pot or other large contact I would recommend 1st de-soldering, then clean the lead with some isopropyl alcohol, then apply some no-clean flux (sparingly) and then re-solder with a no-clean solder and at least a 60 watt iron (like a Weller W60P).
    Also, WRT the Molex headers, I found that the end pin in each row was particularly susceptible to having cracked solder joints.
best,
Ike

Donald Put wrote:
Jared has some sage advice here.  Also, check for cold solder joints
on the pot's legs as well.  When I first got my board, the left side
would be intermittent for a group of channels.  The problem ended up
being a cold solder joint on a jumper wire between two sections of the
motherboard.  My guess is the vibration from shipping the console had
finally loosened it enough for it to become a problem.  Having been
through my entire board, I can tell you that Neoteks surely aren't
immune to cold solder joint problems, especially, as Jared pointed
out, on the molex pins.

Cheers,
--
Don
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Ike Zimbel
Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
Toronto
416-720-0887
"Studio House Calls" - Repairs and upgrades to analog audio equipment including: Amek, Allen & Heath, Neve, Neotek, MCI, Soundcraft and more.
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