Good idea, big project.
I don't know if your solder pads are spaced for normal headers, like the Molex 
.156" standard in other neoteks.  If they are, I would recommend buying right 
angled gold plated headers similar to this.  Then for the female mate (on your 
ribbon loom), assemble connectors with trifurcated pins soldered, not crimped 
to your loom.  
All gold, solid contacts.  Make sure whatever buss cable you choose is 
flexible, and substantial.  Conventional ribbon cable, won't do over the long 
haul. 
If you go with consumer, computer grade stuff, you'll have a new kind of terror 
in the studio. 
I would also recommend making a trap door on the bottom of your console to 
access/remove the connectors, as opposed to having a ton of cable slack between 
channels to pull them out.  The shorter the better.  You don't want to have the 
busses run any longer than you need to.

My two cents.  

Greg Norman
Electrical Audio Recording
773.539.2555
www.electrical.com



On Mar 24, 2011, at 11:54 AM, [email protected] wrote:

> Ok, so my tech (Ralph Skelton) was planning on changing the hardwired 
> channels to ribbons that can unplug when you need to remove a channel (as in 
> re-caping or servicing) along the way.  Before I let him do this, which I 
> believe to be an added "Bonus" feature to my Series 1, I wanted to make sure 
> that it was not affecting the sonic quality of my Series 1 as I am in love 
> with the clarity and warmth of this console...second only to a Neve 88r that 
> I have worked on.
> 
> He is a very knowledgable tech so I am behind the mods he suggested, I just 
> wanted to make sure no one has tried this mod and heard a difference.
> 
> Thanx
> Jack
> 
> 
> Jack Dean Stauss
> No Static Pro Audio, Inc.
> 3083 N. California St.
> Burbank Ca. 91504
> 
> 818-729-8554
> 818-729-8551 Fax
> 
> www.nostaticav.com
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any attachments, is 
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> 
> On Mar 18, 2011, at 8:58 PM, Steve Antoniazzi wrote:
> 
>> Not better or worse sounding just more difficult to work on. Much more 
>> difficult.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Mar 18, 2011, at 10:56 PM, Jack Dean Stauss <[email protected]> wrote:
>> 
>>> While we are on the subject of the hardwired consoles...is the general 
>>> consensus of the list that they are sonically superior or inferior to the 
>>> modular?
>>> 
>>> Just wondering what the thought process was when they hardwired the modules 
>>> and made them so difficult to remove.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Mar 18, 2011, at 8:33 PM, "Ron Runyon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> I have a IIIc and the Modules are Definitely Hard Wired. All of Them.
>>>> Ron Runyon
>>>>  
>>>> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On 
>>>> Behalf Of Matt Walsh
>>>> Sent: Friday, March 18, 2011 8:07 PM
>>>> To: [email protected]
>>>> Cc: [email protected]
>>>> Subject: Re: NEOTEK: series III teardown/move questions...
>>>>  
>>>> Clark--
>>>> 
>>>> Have you ever sat in front of an actual Neotek in your life? The majority 
>>>> do not have hardwired modules.
>>>> 
>>>> A friendly reminder from reality,
>>>> Matt W
>>>> 
>>>> On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 1:16 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> First off, The modules are all hardwired. the cannot comeout with out a 
>>>> lot of work. You really can only sit it up with the meter bridge down, pad 
>>>> up, 2 - 4-wheel dollies, strap her down and go. That is the best way (this 
>>>> is how Neotek save money by not having removeable modules like a neve, the 
>>>> differece between a 30 G console and a 100 G console). Everything will 
>>>> need to be teseted again when set up as since it is hardwired, some solder 
>>>> points become loose. Not a big deal. I have moved a series 3, 3 different 
>>>> times to 3 different states.
>>>>  
>>>> Good Luck
>>>> Clark
>>>>  
>> 
> 

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