If the flimsy plastic thing on your old switch, when you get it out, is any good and you want to part with it, I'd be interested, Thanks and good luck On 10/28/08, Christopher Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Thanks, that's exactly what I needed. And even better: both conductive > circuits work in the new ignition, it was just a bad connection in the > harness. Now as soon as I can get that stripped bolt off and my old > ignition out, I'll be in the money. I'll let you know how that turns out, > Christoph > > On Tue, Oct 28, 2008 at 7:00 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> The flimsy plastic holds it all together be careful. You may be able to >> switch your harness with the 700 harness. Clymer says (and it works) that >> you can remove the plastic end with the key halfway between on and off. >> Gently use a small screwdriver and depress each of the lugs and remove the >> cover slowly and the harness will come off. Going back together is the same- >> key in between. When the switch is together and the key is on red and black >> should have continuity and brown/white and brown should have continuity.Turn >> it to P and red and brown should have continuity. When in off nothing should >> show between anything. Note these are 550/650 specs (those switches were the >> same) not 700, I'm not sure of the difference, if any. Clymer 550/650 >> page199-201 was very helpful to me. I have a couple of these switches with >> the broken flimsy plastic thing( the only thing wrong with them) so do be >> careful. >> On 10/28/08, Christoph Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >>> Hi Everyone, I've been having issues for a long time with the keyswitch >>> on my '84 CB550. A while back I saw a similar ignition assembly come up on >>> eBay and bought it. When I say "similar", I mean it's from a '85 CB700. It >>> is the same physical dimensions but the wiring harness is different (but >>> both are 5-wire). So I just wanted to consult the crowd before rewiring the >>> thing. >>> Strange thing is, I checked the connections on my new ignition with a >>> multimeter. When the switch is Off/Park/Lock, no connections between any >>> wires. When the switch is On, there is a connection between one pair of >>> wires, so I only have one switching circuit to work with. I could probably >>> open the thing up and check the contacts, but then I risk destroying that >>> flimsy plastic cap that holds it all together. >>> So this is quickly becoming a very shoddy fix. Here's my understanding >>> of the wiring: >>> 1 +12V >>> 2 GND >>> 3 Main circuit / Spark plugs >>> 4 Headlights? >>> 5 Taillight? >>> >>> >>> Is there any reason I can't just wire 3,4 and 5 in parallel, and connect >>> them to +12V using the remaining switch circuit? All I want is to be able >>> to turn the key once, with no fiddling, and have everything turn on and stay >>> on until I'm done riding. Is that really too much to ask? >>> >>> >>> Christoph >>> >>> >>> >>> >> > > > > >
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