Glad you're back. On 11/3/08, Christopher Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Got the job done on Sunday. No hitches, no surprises, I can ride with some > peace of mind again! Thanks for your help, Christoph > > On Wed, Oct 29, 2008 at 7:34 PM, Christopher Anderson < > [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> Ha, sorry to disappoint what is surely a big market, but I don't have any >> spare flimsy plastic covers. The previous one busted during a trip many >> moons ago, and my temporary fix (superglue) held the ignition together right >> up through this summer. >> >> >> On Tue, Oct 28, 2008 at 7:59 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >>> If the flimsy plastic thing on your old switch, when you get it out, is >>> any good and you want to part with it, I'd be interested, Thanks and good >>> luck >>> >>> On 10/28/08, Christopher Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>>> >>>> Thanks, that's exactly what I needed. And even better: both conductive >>>> circuits work in the new ignition, it was just a bad connection in the >>>> harness. Now as soon as I can get that stripped bolt off and my old >>>> ignition out, I'll be in the money. I'll let you know how that turns out, >>>> Christoph >>>> >>>> On Tue, Oct 28, 2008 at 7:00 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>>> >>>>> The flimsy plastic holds it all together be careful. You may be able to >>>>> switch your harness with the 700 harness. Clymer says (and it works) that >>>>> you can remove the plastic end with the key halfway between on and off. >>>>> Gently use a small screwdriver and depress each of the lugs and remove the >>>>> cover slowly and the harness will come off. Going back together is the >>>>> same- >>>>> key in between. When the switch is together and the key is on red and >>>>> black >>>>> should have continuity and brown/white and brown should have >>>>> continuity.Turn >>>>> it to P and red and brown should have continuity. When in off nothing >>>>> should >>>>> show between anything. Note these are 550/650 specs (those switches were >>>>> the >>>>> same) not 700, I'm not sure of the difference, if any. Clymer 550/650 >>>>> page199-201 was very helpful to me. I have a couple of these switches with >>>>> the broken flimsy plastic thing( the only thing wrong with them) so do be >>>>> careful. >>>>> On 10/28/08, Christoph Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hi Everyone, I've been having issues for a long time with the >>>>>> keyswitch on my '84 CB550. A while back I saw a similar ignition >>>>>> assembly >>>>>> come up on eBay and bought it. When I say "similar", I mean it's from a >>>>>> '85 >>>>>> CB700. It is the same physical dimensions but the wiring harness is >>>>>> different (but both are 5-wire). So I just wanted to consult the crowd >>>>>> before rewiring the thing. >>>>>> Strange thing is, I checked the connections on my new ignition with a >>>>>> multimeter. When the switch is Off/Park/Lock, no connections between any >>>>>> wires. When the switch is On, there is a connection between one pair of >>>>>> wires, so I only have one switching circuit to work with. I could >>>>>> probably >>>>>> open the thing up and check the contacts, but then I risk destroying that >>>>>> flimsy plastic cap that holds it all together. >>>>>> So this is quickly becoming a very shoddy fix. Here's my >>>>>> understanding of the wiring: >>>>>> 1 +12V >>>>>> 2 GND >>>>>> 3 Main circuit / Spark plugs >>>>>> 4 Headlights? >>>>>> 5 Taillight? >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Is there any reason I can't just wire 3,4 and 5 in parallel, and >>>>>> connect them to +12V using the remaining switch circuit? All I want is >>>>>> to >>>>>> be able to turn the key once, with no fiddling, and have everything turn >>>>>> on >>>>>> and stay on until I'm done riding. Is that really too much to ask? >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Christoph >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> > > > > >
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