Got the job done on Sunday.  No hitches, no surprises, I can ride with some
peace of mind again!  Thanks for your help,Christoph

On Wed, Oct 29, 2008 at 7:34 PM, Christopher Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:

> Ha, sorry to disappoint what is surely a big market, but I don't have any
> spare flimsy plastic covers.  The previous one busted during a trip many
> moons ago, and my temporary fix (superglue) held the ignition together right
> up through this summer.
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 28, 2008 at 7:59 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> If the flimsy plastic thing on your old switch, when you get it out, is
>> any good and you want to part with it, I'd be interested, Thanks and good
>> luck
>>
>> On 10/28/08, Christopher Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks, that's exactly what I needed.  And even better: both conductive
>>> circuits work in the new ignition, it was just a bad connection in the
>>> harness.  Now as soon as I can get that stripped bolt off and my old
>>> ignition out, I'll be in the money.  I'll let you know how that turns out,
>>> Christoph
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 28, 2008 at 7:00 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The flimsy plastic holds it all together be careful. You may be able to
>>>> switch your harness with the 700 harness. Clymer says (and it works) that
>>>> you can remove the plastic end with the key halfway between on and off.
>>>> Gently use a small screwdriver and depress each of the lugs and remove the
>>>> cover slowly and the harness will come off. Going back together is the 
>>>> same-
>>>> key in between. When the switch is together and the key is on red and black
>>>> should have continuity and brown/white and brown should have 
>>>> continuity.Turn
>>>> it to P and red and brown should have continuity. When in off nothing 
>>>> should
>>>> show between anything. Note these are 550/650 specs (those switches were 
>>>> the
>>>> same) not 700, I'm not sure of the difference, if any. Clymer 550/650
>>>> page199-201 was very helpful to me. I have a couple of these switches with
>>>> the broken flimsy plastic thing( the only thing wrong with them) so do be
>>>> careful.
>>>>    On 10/28/08, Christoph Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>  Hi Everyone, I've been having issues for a long time with the
>>>>> keyswitch on my '84 CB550.  A while back I saw a similar ignition assembly
>>>>> come up on eBay and bought it.  When I say "similar", I mean it's from a 
>>>>> '85
>>>>> CB700.  It is the same physical dimensions but the wiring harness is
>>>>> different (but both are 5-wire).  So I just wanted to consult the crowd
>>>>> before rewiring the thing.
>>>>> Strange thing is, I checked the connections on my new ignition with a
>>>>> multimeter.  When the switch is Off/Park/Lock, no connections between any
>>>>> wires.  When the switch is On, there is a connection between one pair of
>>>>> wires, so I only have one switching circuit to work with.  I could 
>>>>> probably
>>>>> open the thing up and check the contacts, but then I risk destroying that
>>>>> flimsy plastic cap that holds it all together.
>>>>> So this is quickly becoming a very shoddy fix.  Here's my understanding
>>>>> of the wiring:
>>>>> 1 +12V
>>>>> 2 GND
>>>>> 3 Main circuit / Spark plugs
>>>>> 4 Headlights?
>>>>> 5 Taillight?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Is there any reason I can't just wire 3,4 and 5 in parallel, and
>>>>> connect them to +12V using the remaining switch circuit?  All I want is to
>>>>> be able to turn the key once, with no fiddling, and have everything turn 
>>>>> on
>>>>> and stay on until I'm done riding.  Is that really too much to ask?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Christoph
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> >>>
>>>
>

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