They are your carbs. Investigate what passages are blocked. It would seem that 
you have sufficient intake vacuum, Hand choking increases that. If all was 
well, after hand choking, the plugs would be saturated. Because they aren't, 
the path from bowl to intake via choke valves must be blocked or the choke 
valves don't work properly. They can be removed without too much trouble. Very 
simple devices. 

--- On Wed, 2/25/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
To: [email protected]
Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 5:46 PM


I cranked  the motor over - it tried to start, at least on one or two cyl. Then 
I checked the plugs.  They were dry on the tips and porcelain but a little wet 
on the rim of the plug.  It didn't smell like gas however.  I then tried to 
start the bike with my hand restricting the air flow at the air filter.  It did 
start but died when I moved my 'hand choke' I probably could have gotten it 
started that way.  So, it looks like the choke isn't working eh?  Now 
what?Graham
On Feb 25, 2009, at 12:21 AM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
Spraying it optimizes the conditions needed for starting. Which... means the 
chokes aren't working. If it has a strong vacuum when cranking if you hold your 
hand over any carb throat, the chokes aren't passing any fuel. WHY ? The "gas 
chokes" are very simple valve devices. If they have access to fuel from the 
float chamber and they are open to the bores when activated, all should work. 
With the throttle plates closed, the high vacuum (or , more properly, low 
pressure) should draw fuel up through the choke circuits and into the motor. 
It's as simple as a faucet. I don't want to get into any abstract at this 
point. Are the plugs getting wet when you crank the motor with the chioke 
operated ? Knowing that is a must before proceding. If they are, we look 
elsewhere. If not, we stay in the carbs. 

--- On Tue, 2/24/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
To: [email protected]
Date: Tuesday, February 24, 2009, 8:05 AM

 Tried starting the bike this morning and there doesn't seem to be any 
improvement.  It would 'bubble' along like it was trying to catch (it acted 
like a weak spark) but again it took starting fluid and the choke seemed not to 
play apart.  Once it had 'caught', restricting the air flow through the air 
filter with my hand significantly increased the rpms.  Maybe I should also 
check the state of the battery huh?Incidently I noticed the fuel gauge didn't 
work until I revved the engine significantly and held the revs. That was a new 
one to me,  Graham
On Feb 23, 2009, at 11:02 PM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
Let us know how that works out. The neutral wiring is grounded and that's why 
it always shows N / green light. Let's get into that later. You have multiple 
issues. One at a time. 

--- On Mon, 2/23/09, kiwi <[email protected]> wrote:
From: kiwi <[email protected]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
Date: Monday, February 23, 2009, 1:16 PM

Blasted those tiny holes that allow the gas through when using the
choke with compressed air and
 spent 2 hours reinstalling the carbs. It
still took starting fluid to get the bike started BUT, not very much
and the choke worked a little.  I'll see how it starts
 tomorrow when
it is back to winter temperature.
Second problem with this NH is the neutral/gear indicator.  It reads N
all the time and won't show what gear the bike is in. I found a little
black box under the tail section that I think is part of the N/gear
indicator system.  Is there a way to check it?
Third problem should be simple.  The left front turn signal is
'bright' when ignition is on but will not blink when  it should.  The
others work as they should.  That left one shines a lot brighter than
the right front when ignition is on.

On Feb 22, 11:11 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
> I will assume your carb clean was a complete operation. Let's examine
how the choke works. The cable opens valves that will
 permit raw fuel to be
sucked into the motor during cranking. Now, lets say that works fine.Your plugs
should be wet after cranking for a short while. Y-N ? The most common
 cause of
the plugs being dry after cranking is the throttle plates being open too far and
causing insufficient vacuum. Same as opening the throttle while trying to start.
When the intake air flow is too low, no fuel will be drawn in from the choke
circuit. If the plugs are wet, you're flooding the motor.
> We start here. Additional checks of compression and a leak-down may be in
order.
> This may take time to resolve. Get at it. 
>
> --- On Sun, 2/22/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Nighthawk S starting problem
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Sunday, February 22, 2009, 6:18 PM
>
> I have a 1986 Nighthawk S.  It ran before I got it but always took  
> starter fluid in the air filter to get it going.  I pulled the carbs  
> and
 thoroughly cleaned them and used to compressed air in all the  
> holes.  However the bike still will not start without stater fluid  
> and even then it takes along time with the fluid.  I noticed that  
> using the choke seemed to make no difference at all so, thinking that  
> perhaps the choke isn't working at all I removed the carbs again  
> (they are terrible to remove) and did what I could toi ensure the  
> choke was working right.  The mechanism moves as it should and I used  
> compressed air in the holes to the where I
 presume the choke opens.  
> Now, before I reinstall the carbs, any suggestions?  Could the  
> problem have been the choke or is there something else that would  
> cause the same problem.  By the way, once the bike was warmed up, it  
> ran fine - just when it's cold I have to use
 starting fluid,  Graham

     





 
 
      
 
 









      
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