It has been awhile since I did locks, but I remember that Ford (including 
Mercury and Lincoln) keys have two sets of cuts on the same lock: one for the 
door and one for the ignition.  So cutting a code key requires both the 
ignition and the door lock, both of which are easy to remove.  There is a 
little hole in the bottom of the ignition.  If you have a key, put it in the 
ignition and stick a stiff pin or wire in the hole, you turn and pull the 
ignition plug out.  Don't remember which way, but probably the same direction 
as trying to start the car.
For the door, there is a flat clip that is, If I remember, accessible from the 
end of the door.  Pull that out and then pull the key plug out of the door.  
Carefully...
That's how Ford did it back in the '90s when I worked on them.  Don't know what 
may have changed since then, but I wish you well with it.
 
Stanley




________________________________
From: Angela Kennedy <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 7:03:30 AM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: New to nighthawks and was hoping for more then 
a few pointers

'93 Mercury Tracer with no code on the lock


On Sun, Jun 14, 2009 at 8:01 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:

depends on the car, type, year and model 


On Jun 14, 2009, at 7:41 AM, Angela Kennedy wrote:

SPEAKING OF KEYS, does anybody know if you have a car where the key fits both 
the door and ignition and if you remake a key to fit JUST the door, it won't 
fit the ignition and vice versa?? I was told , over the phone, to remove my 
door lock so the locksmith could get the code and remake the key. So I was 
thinking that if I get  door key made, volla!, I'd have the igniton. But, when 
I got there with door lock in hand, the locksmith said it it didn't work like 
that. He'd have to have both the door lock and the igniton to create a working 
key for both. Is this true or is this guy just trying to get my money. Can 
somebody verify cause I've been a bit frustrated about this ever since I lost 
my key to my car.(the only key, which I'm positive will turn up right after 
I spend money I don't have on a locksmith) The guy does work at a reputable 
neighborhood locksmith but you never know. I wanna be sure before I fork over 
this cash.


On Sun, Jun 14, 2009 at 12:51 AM, Mark Hasslinger <[email protected]> 
wrote:

In southeast Asia, the local keymakers hold the blank keys in their toes and a 
file in two hands so as to get a steady and straight cut and make a key in 
about a minute and a half. No problem.


--- On Sat, 6/13/09, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:

From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: New to nighthawks and was hoping for more then 
a few pointers
To: [email protected]
Date: Saturday, June 13, 2009, 8:02 PM


I'm surprised you were able to find an actual locksmith. There was an old guy 
in my hometown, made all his keys by hand on a grinding wheel, and would try it 
in your lock to make sure he was happy with it before he took your money. Its 
hard to find craftsman like that anymore.

-Kyle 



On Sat, Jun 13, 2009 at 7:48 PM, The Webby <[email protected]> wrote:


I was a dummy and lost my keys to my bike - I thought I was going to
have to spring for 200 ignition assembly until a bike mechanic told me
to simply take the ignition switch to a locksmith and have him cut a
key from that - the good thing about that - it matches the tank lock
and the others.
cost me 27$

On May 11, 9:34 pm, Christopher Anderson <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Hey Colin,I have the exact same model and I've been through ignition issues
> already.  On an otherwise bulletproof bike it's a poorly designed part, so
> I'm wondering that your fusebox might be fine.
> I got mine 2 years ago, in similar condition, and last year the ignition
> started acting up, cutting out while I was riding or not turning the
> headlight/signals/gauges on.  Plus the key came out with the engine still
> running.  I was able to replace it with a part from a similar model, I think
> maybe the '84 or '85.
> I would suggest if you have a multimeter you should unbolt the headlight,
> pull it out far enough to get access to the ignition contacts, and check
> that there is continuity to the fusebox for the correct circuits in the
> correct key positions (listed in the electrical schematics of the manual, or
> I could walk you through it).
> The point is, I think it's worth having a look at before you resolve the
> tank cap issue.  If your ignition is the electrical problem, then you might
> be able to replace them both and get a matching set with a single key.
> -Christoph
>
> ps. If the plastic cap over the ignition contacts is still in one piece, you
> are a lucky man.  Be very careful with it.  If you can trace the wires out
> of the ignition and test them elsewhere, all the better.
>
> On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 1:37 PM, Cdawgdevine <[email protected]>wrote:

>
>
>
>
>
> > i called a bunch of lock smiths no one will pick it, and its not the
> > same key as the ignition at some point and time some one must have
> > replaced the ignition or tank lock, i found a site that has all the
> > parts i could ever need for the bike, and they have locking gas caps,
> > it seems there is no other options and all the fourms i keep reading
> > tell me the best option is to drill it out and replace it
>
> > On May 1, 11:16 am, Tree Doc <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > DRILL OUT THE LOCK?!!! AY CARUMBA!!!
>
> > > Holy Moly, get some advice on that option before taking it. Have a
> > > locksmith pick it or something. I'm not well-versed in tank locks but
> > > that's the only mechanism that keeps your tank closed. The key for the
> > > ignition is the same key that opens the tank unless one or the other
> > > have been replaced somewhere along the line.





    










      
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