No, you don't need a centerstand to do an oil change. But I'd consider one for future purchase, if I were you. They are worth their weight in gold when it comes to doing any kind of work on the rear of the bike (cleaning tire/rim, oiling the chain, removing the rear wheel, etc). Not that expensive either, considering the convenience they provide. About $138 at the same Bike Bandit link I posted earlier. Maybe cheaper on Ebay, but I prefer OEM at high retail prices for some parts, rather than taking a chance on possibly defective or inaccurately described used stuff.
You don't need to purchase the Common Service manual. It's available for free download at: http://www.vf750fd.com/vf750f/Honda_Common_Service_Manual.pdf Changing the oil is not that difficult. Lemme rephrase that...it isn't complicated. Whether it's difficult or not depends on whether the previous oil changer was a muscle-bound gorilla who tightened things tighter than they need to be. There is a large bolt in the bottom most part of the engine crankcase (you'll have to lay on your back and look up under and between the exhaust pipes to see it). When you do this, It will become obvious why I recommend a ratchet wrench with an extension to reach up in there. The other thing to look at before you get up off your back -- the filter is on the front of the engine behind the four exhaust pipes. Check it to see which of 3 types it is: a smooth canister, a canister with stamped ridges around the edges of the top (closest to you), or one with what looks like a nut stamped onto the top. Of these, the stamped nut is the easiest to work with because you can reach it easily with the aforementioned ratchet/extension wrench. I highly recommend that your replacement filter have this feature. It will save a lot of future aggravation. The other types require specialized wrenches. The smooth canister needs a strap-type wrench, the stamped around the edges kind needs a matching cup-type stamped accessory which fits an extension equipped ratchet. Good luck with those. They are "fiddly." Both are commonly available at auto parts stores. When you're ready to do the dirty deed (literally, it's messy), put a drain pan underneath. I like the large, shallow throwawy aluminum baking pans mommas/wives use for pot roast (let momma use it first for pot roast and tell her you'll be in for dinner in a few minutes). Now, unscrew the bolt and get outta the way, here comes a gusher. Less messy if you just let the bolt fall into the pan and fish it out later. Let it drain for several minutes until it quits dripping. Then move the pan under the oil filter and repeat the process. Easier and less messy to let the filter sit on the exhaust pipes till it finishes dripping also. Then fish it out from behind the the pipes, moving it with your fingers toward the right side of the bike. Installation of the new filter is just the reverse, except dip your finger in clean oil and apply a thin film of it around the rubber gasket on the bottom of the filter before you install it. Tighten it just snug, then another quarter-turn. You want just tight enough not to leak oil, but not so tight you can't get it off next time. (Remember our muscle-bound gorilla friend!). Ditto the bolt in the bottom case. Make sure the washer that was on the bolt is still there. If it's not there and not in the roast pan, look up at the bottom case. It may be stuck there. Tighten just enough for oil not to leak, and no more. Refill with your favorite oil and go sit down to a pot roast dinner. Better wash your hands first (!) --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
