You don't need a tappet bleeder (they are nice) as long as you don't mind 
getting messy. You can work the piston with an awl in a big bucket of light 
oil. just hold upright. Do it till the bubbles stop.The bleeder tool is just a 
holder with a pin in it. Makes it a one hand deal. The degree in pays no 
attention to marks. Once you determine actual TDC (piston stop and split 
method) you affix a degree wheel to the crank and a pointer. Turn crank to 
obtain a 1MM valve opening (dial gauge)and note degrees. Correct as needed. 
Sounds so simple. Rob's 650 was off by one tooth on the intake from marks ( 
that got it almost perfect) and the exhaust sprocket needed to have it's holes 
egged out 1/8" to bring it in. Mass production tolerance and wear make for a 
less than an ideal situation. A 'real" tuner can make additional changes to 
gain performance. I have a dear friend that builds the world's best 384 Chevys 
for sprint cars. He was going to show me how to do
 "lobe center" adjustment. I haven't bothered him as his health is poor now. I 
swept the floors in his garage when I was 15. My inspiration for a career. 
Try this for your tappets; insert an awl in the bottom of the tappet and let 
the awl handle rest on the bottom of a container of oil (level above the 
tappet) push down on the tappet with a small socket on an extension. Just make 
the socket big enough to fit over the tip.

--- On Sun, 9/6/09, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote:

From: oldschoolgwin <[email protected]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NH 650 Valve timing - please help Dennis
To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 11:33 AM


Dennis,

Thanks. This makes perfect sense - I understand the setup and also the
purpose and method of degree in the cams (i'll see how well they line
up before considering that one). I think this will enable me to
complete it.

If only Honda could write a manual this way!

I'll let you know how it goes.  I have to wait for the tappet bleeder
(ordered) so i probably won't reinstall until next weekend.

Thanks a bunch.

Paul

On Sep 5, 11:42 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
> Maybe I can make this a little easier. The crank index has nothing to do with 
> compression stroke, etc. It only indicates that the piston (#1) is at TDC. 
> Turning it 360 degrees will bring the piston back to TDC. So, the up marks 
> could be up or.. down. Let's do this slowly. At TDC, the cam lobes for #1 
> should be up. Put the bolts in the sprockets with the up mark, well...UP ! 
> make sure the alignment marks do..well... align. (with each other) and 
> parallel to the gasket surface. Rotate the crank and put the other bolts in. 
> Sounds easy, right ? Not so. Because of valve spring tension, it can be 
> difficult to get it right. I have found that the easiest way is to get a 
> sprocket in place and one bolt in by first indexing the sprocket to the crank 
> (TDC) and holding it in place while I rotate the crank till the hole aligns. 
> Install the bolt. Now bring it back and check that it went OK. Repeat for the 
> other cam. It helps if you can unload the tensioner. Now the
>  danger in having a slack chain is that the whole thing may be off when you 
> tension the chain. Start over. Like anything else of a very delicate 
> technical nature, the 500th time you do it, it goes easier. At any rate, 
> rotate the crank many times before buttoning up. Re-check your work over and 
> over. If you are getting all this, I'm trying to say it's easier to turn the 
> crank than the cams, but doing it requires that you exercise extreme care. 
> The picture you sent showed cams out-of-time in a late condition. That would 
> produce a poor running engine. When I build for myself or a finicky customer, 
> I degree in the cams. That requires you to find EXACT TDC and determine if 
> the cams are opening at the right time by measuring valve lift. The figures 
> in the spec section of the book (front) are when the valves are open 1MM. The 
> cam sprocket holes are then ground out to move the cams a small amount to 
> bring them in to spec. It's not an easy job even to just do
 a
>  routine cam install but keep trying, you'll get it. Just remember that the 
> correct method is for both cams lobes to be up at TDC. You only rotate the 
> crank 180 degrees to get the other two bolts in. Up, up, lines aligned. A 
> chain with some wear makes the job go better but also allows you be off when 
> you're done. If you work the intake cam first with tension on the down run of 
> the chain, that'll give you a good start. I don't mind any of this. I'd like 
> to hear you got it.
>
> --- On Sun, 9/6/09, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> From: oldschoolgwin <[email protected]>
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NH 650 Valve timing - please help Dennis
> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
> Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 1:44 AM
>
> Dennis,
>
> In the picture you marked up (and the other 5 i attached) the crank is
> definately at TDC as perfect as the eye can be and the crank had been
> rotated in the direction specified in the manual.
>
> I don't have a scanner so here are the exact instructions from the
> Honda 650 manual on pg 6-19,20
>
> 1. Turn the crank counter clockwise and align the "T" mark on the
> pulse motor with the index mark on the crankcase
> 2. Set the cam sprockets onto the camshafts with the timing marks
> facing to the right.
> 3. Place the intake and exhaust camshafts through the cam chain and
> into the cylinder head with the No. 1 cam lobes poiting up.
> 4. Place the cam chain over the cam sprockets. The "up" marks should
> be facing up as shown (it shows a picture with "UP" at the top of the
> sprocket as it is installed in the cylinder head)
> 5. First align the IN mark of the IN sprocket with the cylinder head
> surface. Align the sprocket bolt holes by turning the crankshaft
> clockwise and install the intake sprocket bolt.
> 6. Then turn the crankshaft to align the EX mark with the cylinder
> head surface as shown and install the sprocket bolt.
> 7. Rotate the crankshaft, and install the remaining cam sprocket
> bolts.
> 8. Tighten the four cam sprocket bolts to the specified torque.
>
> The way I read it, is at TDC on the compression stroke 1) the cam
> sprockets should both have "UP" at the top of the sprocket 2) the #1
> cylinder cam lobes must point up and 3) according to your notes, the
> IN and EX marks on both sprockets should all be lined up  (this is the
> part the Honda manual really confuses me on, but i think they want the
> IN mark on the Intake sprocket and the EX mark on the Exhaust sprocket
> to be alligned with the cylinder head surface - maybe that would make
> all 4 marks line up to each other as well?).
>
> I think the cam sprockets in my 650 were installed upside down because
> on the picture you sent back with TDC alligned, and the #1 cam lobe
> pointing up, the cam sprockets should have "UP" at the top just as in
> this picture (only this is at TDC of the exhaust 
> stroke)http://16481440758028870596-a-g.googlegroups.com/web/650+CAM+TIMING+E...
>
> Do you also think the cam sprockets are updside down in comparison to
> the Honda manaul?
>
> Sorry to be such a pain and I hope I haven't made this too confusing
> (it's tough to explain in text messages).
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Paul
>
> On Sep 5, 8:11 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I don't have a 650 manual in front of me. I don't remember them building 
> > from the right side. Oh well, 700's build from the left. In other words, 
> > indicator and cam marks are on same side. I can scan the 700 manual page 
> > and send it. Check this out. Your alignment is out if this picture was 
> > taken with the crank at TDC.
>
> > --- On Sat, 9/5/09, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > From: oldschoolgwin <[email protected]>
> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] NH 650 Valve timing - please help Dennis
> > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
> > Date: Saturday, September 5, 2009, 7:05 PM
>
> > Dennis,
>
> > Before changing the cam chain tensioner i inspected the timing marks
> > against the Honda official manual so that i could make sure to
> > duplicate the exact positions.
>
> > But I thiink the cam timing is not setup correctly to begin with -
> > but
> > i'm not possitive.
>
> > I set the "T" mark at the TDC index on the compression stroke (cam
> > lobes up on #1 cyl) but the cam sprockets are "down".  See picture
> > files i uploaded to the files section.  There are 3 files
> > name .....comression stroke... that show the various comonent timing
> > while at TDC.
>
> > "T" Mark at 
> > TDC:http://16481440758028870596-a-g.googlegroups.com/web/650+CAM+TIMING+T...
>
> >http://16481440758028870596-a-g.googlegroups.com/web/650+CAM+TIMING+C...
>
> >http://16481440758028870596-a-g.googlegroups.com/web/650+CAM+TIMING+C...
>
> >http://16481440758028870596-a-g.googlegroups.com/web/650+CAM+TIMING+C...
>
> > Then i rotated the crank one revolution  exactly so now it is at TDC
> > on the exhaust stroke.  In this case the the cam sprockets are up and
> > the #1 cyclinder cam lobes are down.
>
> >http://16481440758028870596-a-g.googlegroups.com/web/650+CAM+TIMING+E...
>
> >http://16481440758028870596-a-g.googlegroups.com/web/650+CAM+TIMING+E...
>
> >http://16481440758028870596-a-g.googlegroups.com/web/650+CAM+TIMING+E...
>
> > Does it look like the cam sprockets were installed 180 degrees out of
> > phase with respect to the #1 cyclinder cam lobe position.  It seems
> > that this would also caus the valve timing to be off slitghtly.  The
> > bike currently runs a little rough at idle, but pulls really hard from
> > 3000 rpm up to 7500 and then at 7500 it pulls harder.
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Paul
>
> >  650+CAM+TIMING+Compression+Stroke+CAM+Sprocket+Position+Mark#4.jpg
> > 596KViewDownload
>
>
>
>  650+CAM+TIMING+Compression+Stroke+CAM+Sprocket+Position+Mark #2.jpg
> 760KViewDownload- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -




      
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