Maybe someone will chime in with a more accurate answer, but you should be 
seeing in the 13.5-14V range when the engine's RPMs are at 'cruising' speed 
(3000+ or so).

You'll likely be seeing 11.5v or less at idle.

On Jan 12, 2011, at 9:08 PM, Michael McCall wrote:

> Didn't know that, do you know what the voltage is supposed to go up to when I 
> rev it?
> 
> Thanks
> Mike
> 
> On Jan 12, 2011 7:58 PM, "James O&apos;Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > That sounds normal. The ALT doesn't charge the bike at idle. It does this 
> > (I believe) to save a little strain on the engine at idle. Most the time 
> > when a bike is running, it isn't idling, and when it does idle, it is only 
> > for short periods of time (warming up and sitting at stop lights). 
> > 
> > - James O'Gorman
> > 
> > 
> > On Jan 12, 2011, at 6:54 PM, Michael McCall wrote:
> > 
> >> the regulator was bad and I replaced it. Which fixed it, sort of. It 
> >> doesn't charge at idle but does get some increase with reving, some being 
> >> half a volt ish.
> >> 
> >> On Jan 12, 2011 4:37 PM, "James O&apos;Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> > One more possibility -
> >> > (and I'd have to look at the schematic to be sure) Most Alternators
> >> > have a reference wire (to voltage regulator) OR a sensing wire (that
> >> > looks for voltage drop from the draw of other electronics like the
> >> > lights), and a switched 12v wire (that functions as the on/off). If
> >> > either of these was missing/broken/intermittent, it would cause
> >> > electrical mishaps such as the alternator not coming on to charge.
> >> > 
> >> > On Wed, Jan 12, 2011 at 4:29 PM, Allen <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >> Burned up stator, or rectifier/regulator.
> >> >>
> >> >> On Jan 12, 4:50 pm, Michael McCall <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >>> I have the same bike, and I too have electrical problems. Do you know 
> >> >>> why I
> >> >>> wouldn't be getting a charge for the stator/rotor/alternator?
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Thanks
> >> >>> Mike
> >> > 
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