Dunno... I know how to test them, though :)

Check the Ohms through the switch while turning it on/off. Too many Ohms = bad 
switch. Every time the contacts get close, a small electric arc happens right 
before they physically touch. Over time, carbon will build up on the contacts 
from this, and eventually there is too much build-up to allow the electrons to 
flow freely. An alternative way to testing Ohms is to set a voltmeter to read 
Volts DC, and read the voltage across the switch. If there is a voltage drop of 
more than about 1/2 a volt, the switch contacts need to be cleaned or replaced.

* Some switches are designed as 'self-cleaning' since the contacts slide 
against each other slightly as the come together, versus just closing 
straight-on. I have no idea what the switches for our starter buttons are 
designed like. 

You can check the wiring by back-probing the wires right at the switch, and/or 
go one step further and check the wiring by probing the other ends of the wires 
that go to the switch. One end is going to come from a switched 12-volt source, 
and the other end on the other side of the switch will go to the starter relay. 
You should be able to check the voltage drop between these two points as you 
press the switch.

I hope this gets you started!

 - JO

On Mar 16, 2011, at 8:39 AM, Chris Lopez wrote:

> Like I really have to ask but has anyone had experience in fixing a switch 
> assemble. I believe the starter switch is bad. I've tested the battery, 
> solenoid and the starter and they are all reading good but the bike is still 
> not starting and the only thing I can think of is the starter switch because 
> it continues to stick. Pictures would help greatly.
>  
> Chris
>  
> PS hopefully if this is the problem I can get to syn. my carbs I'll keep you 
> posted and pictures will follow
> 
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