At 10:12 AM 11/16/2011, you wrote:
So in layman terms jumping from a car battery won't hurt.
Not if nothing else is wrong and your not holding the starter button
down long enough to melt the starter.
The advantage of a bike batt is it's one more safety valve. It's CCA
is too low to melt the small wires of a bike with a dead short or
stuck starter, And the Ah's are too low to crank until the starter
goes into a "china syndrome", the batt goes dead before the starter.
My old shop teacher told us to use the 30 and 1 rule for everything.
30 days or first use for warranty on friends cars and 30 seconds of
cranking one min of waiting. On small starters like bikes, lawn
mowers, sleds etc. I prefer 20 and one. And of utmost important when
jumping off a truck batt with 1500 CCA if all you get when you press
the button is a click LET GO! If you have any reason to suspect a
short or other problem hook the cables up from the bike batt to a
running car, wait 2-5 min. Disconnect the cables. Try and start the
bike. You should get something. If you get nothing either your batt
is really dead and needs a longer wait time or you have a problem. Do
Not try jumping until you're sure which. If it tries but doesn't
crank fast enough or long enough then try and jump it.
Other things to note when jump starting anything. If the running
vehicle is newer than 96 you *should* not leave it running while you
try and jump start. OBDII computers are sensitive enough that you
*can* hurt them with a voltage spike. A running car(truck) is one of
the best *smart* chargers available. It's capable of up to 30 amps
minimum, (my truck will push 130amps from a factory alt. My old CJ
would push up to 250 amps with an aftermarket alt.) With rare
exceptions it will only push as much as the batt can safely take. The
exceptions are based on unusual battery designs not alternators. Some
of the spiral wound, gel and dry cell applications need special
regulators. One thing with that. If your bike battery has an internal
short it could kill your bikes charging system but is unlikely to
have enough draw to hurt your car's.
A 12v wet cell battery from a Nighthawk, Accord, F150, Peterbuilt,
CAT, or golf cart will all have no more than 12.4 volts at rest. A
running 12v vehicle will *normally* have 13.2v-14.7v, 70's and 80's
Fords will only allow 17v on max charge, I'm not 100% on anyone
else's max charge rate. I do know to get that rate you have to pull
more than 80% of the alternators capacity and spin it at apx 2500 rpm
or more.
Pat Patterson
Abbotsford, BC, Canada
2001 PT Cruiser
83 450 Honda Nighthawk
78 F350 460/C6 on propane
71 Bronco 302/C4/D20 D44/9"
Some people try to turn back their odometers. Not me, I want people
to know "why" I look this way. I've traveled a long way and some of
the roads weren't paved.
"If you can't take the heat, don't tickle the dragon."
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk
Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
To post to this group, send email to [email protected].
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
[email protected].
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
