8x50 refers to the size. Find an M8x1.25 FLANGED bolt in a 50mm total
length and you will be good. I suggest that you look into a stainless
replacement and do both of them, since they aren't structural.

Though... 50mm seems long, for an exhaust bolt. Are you certain the part
number is correct?

On Oct 2, 2016 19:51, "Jared Clifton" <[email protected]> wrote:

I have tried just about everything, and I am finally going to give up and
take it to my mechanic to see what magic he can do to it. It's starting to
get dark and wet up here in Seattle, so I'm hoping he can get it out
quicker than I have been able.

Which raises a second question... Just in case he ends up destroying the
bolt, I was looking online for a replacement. The parts diagrams show it as
a UBS 8x50 (part #90155-ME5-000). It also shows that part as discontinued.
Does anyone know if there's a direct replacement available? Or does anyone
know where I might be able to source an original?

-Jared



On Thursday, September 22, 2016 at 1:50:18 PM UTC-7, aspork42 wrote:

> Good idea to try and tighten the bolt just to break it free. The clamping
> force of the bolt isn't why this one is stuck - it is the corrosion between
> the threads. That is why heat works - it expands the bolt / threads just
> enough to overcome the corrosion.
>
> On Sep 22, 2016, at 14:47, Lar Lar <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> All good ideas to try so far.  Have you tried using the impact wrench to
> tighten the bolt for just a few impacts, then try loosening it, maybe that
> will break the corrosion bond.  Also do you know what the ft/lbs of your
> impact tool is?  Mine is an electric one rated at 220 ft/lbs and it would
> not take off the wheel nuts off on my car (thanks dealership, lol) but when
> taken off by a garage to have the wheels balanced and put back on at the
> proper torque it was fine.
> We're all pulling for ya!
>
>
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