Re: way off topic need int. help!

[TODD RUBIN]

Steven, I am not an expert on this but I can tell you what I have heard and tried on my toyota Camry wagon 4 cyl. 2.2 liter related to oil burning off. I asked some questions from people on this site related to oil burning and one person said to try these tablets that go into each cylinder which coat the rings and top of pistons which are supposed to fill in any scored metal; I have not tried this but some others may have had some luck with it.  My mechanic said it was probably the rings and I have been driving it now to 200,000 + miles and I have to add oil every 400 miles or so (it burns like a quart).  I have tried, several products like Lucas thick oil additive but to the oil when changing it but have not seen any difference, a mechanic said LUCAS worked well for him in these cases to thicken up the oil.  There is some stuff called Honey that they sell at auto zone people say works, and stp has one I tried but it did not slow up the burning.  Another mechanic said to use straight 30w oil with as little detergent as possible, as the detergents in these additives like Lucas and Rislone actually remove the stuff that keeps the oil from shooting out around the rings.  It makes sense to use a thicker oil like 30w with low detergents as not to remove the coatings.  It is a small engine so with you when it gets cold you may have trouble starting as the oil gets real thick. I had probs starting with Lucas in the winter...I was also using 20-50w oil which is another idea but it seems to slow up the starting when cold and the car shakes from the oil being too thick.  Does the 911 now run even  and smooth without sputtering and missing?  How did the oil get water in there as it is like my 65 bug with air cooled and only oil (no water).  Well Chris's idea is great to get all the water out with the 'sucker"  Does the car have a carb or fuel injected? Maybe the gas has some water in it or the gas tank? maybe water is getting in thru the carb?  did you clean the engine recently with a washer or steam? I am raising questions which may help solve the prob.  maybe fill up with gas and some dry gas? well out of ideas Todd Rubin, 1966Olds Dynamic 88                    1993 toyota wagon                     1991 infiniti G20                      2000 toyota camry ----- Original Message ----- From: steven pignataro To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 10:14 PM Subject: way off topic need int. help! I HAVE A 1984 911 CARERRA  long story but now the car finally runs,  supposedly somehow the oil had water in it, this is an air cooled car,  drained everything out replaced full fuel system and changed oil 3 times,  problem:   the car starts and runs after it warms up it starts to burn oil bad!!!!!!!!  The mech. says probably the rings are bad ,when the oil warms and thins it's blowing by and burning off. might be oil in the muffler burning off that was left around.  He says if thats the case then the oil is blowing by and into the exhaust.  He's very good, very good, the best in fort Laud, with alot of these cars around.  He's probably right, does anybody know if there is something that I can add to the oil to possibly help or seal these rings?  Also mabey really thick oil?  HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  thanks in advance STeven Christopher Witt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: OK, here's the new vacuum sucker jar for emptying Tork Converters, Caravan ATF fluid changeout, brake juice, etc. : http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b172/Rocket_Science_442/6229_NewVacuumOilSuckerReservoir.jpg It does not hold much vacuum, but enough to suck the juice out of stuff like that. As for the new Tork Converter Bolts Tool: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b172/Rocket_Science_442/6229_RS-TOOL_A1-FlexplatetoTorkConv.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b172/Rocket_Science_442/6229_RS-TOOL_C0-12pt.jpg I tried it on the friend's '69 Today, it works GREAT even if you have plenty of clearance, working on turnable engine from below. LOVE IT. Shoulda done it Right years ago. Pulling upper front A-arms off the car to redo, the RH was a bit of a tough extract: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b172/Rocket_Science_442/6229_69-Cs_FrontSuspRemoval_A13-tou.jpg Had to saw thru one bolt, it's still stuck in there as you see. An HOUR to pry that sucker loose. Another hour to remove the bushings. LH unit... still on the car. My biggest pry bar will not loosen the thing from the bolts securing it to the frame. Need real heat source. Soaking in PB right now. Takes the brakes off the spindle asms to get the spindle asms blasted and ready for paint: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b172/Rocket_Science_442/6229_69-Cs_FrontBRAKES_A12-pusherMI.jpg Say... ain't there s'posed to be TWO of them pusher links from wheel cylinder to shoe? Oy vey. I thought the longer brake shoe went on the rear or aft side, as that side gets crammed harder against the drum during normal [fwd motion] stops... I'll have to ck on that. ----------------------- Chris Witt *the* Rocket Scientist 1303 W. Miller Rd. Lansing MI 48911 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cell 517-449-0432 weekends or short weekday calls or leave message. Home 517-882-9747 thru 10-11pm MI time most days Do you Yahoo!? Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.