Is there a formula behind "seal 25Celsius 70% humidity air in, and cool
that down to 10Celsius, you will have about 9grams of condensation per
cubic meter"?
Volume of the largest bilge compartment is about 6 cu. ft. or roughly 0.2
cu. meter., so about 2 grams condensation.
Typical warm July, afternoon about 20C. Could be warmer in September when
we are likely to be gluing in the flooring.
I thanks everyone for the ideas.
Peter
On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 11:31 PM, Vajk Fekete <vaj...@gmail.com> wrote:
> If you seal 25Celsius 70% humidity air in, and cool that down to
> 10Celsius, you will have about 9grams of condensation per cubic meter of
> air.
>
> In my view this is not too significant. You only will have problems, if
> fresh humid air can enter, and more water condensens from the fresh air.
>
> You can consider adding some silica gel (the one in inslulated window
> glass panel frames) to the cavity.
>
> Vajk
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 9, 2013 at 12:35 AM, Peter Hollenbeck <pwhb...@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Good points.
>> All surfaces have at least two coats of epoxy. We may glass the interior
>> surfaces as we have the exterior of the hull. If we use glass on all
>> surfaces the process is: apply a thin seal coat of epoxy. Dry. apply
>> another coat of epoxy, then immediately the glass, followed by a liberal
>> coat of epoxy to saturate the glass and adhere it to the sealed plywood.
>> Exterior surfaces have more epoxy to give a smooth base for paint.
>>
>> My 1wire system tells me the humidity 6AM to 3PM today is 53 to 80%, even
>> though it is a nice sunny day. This because we are about 20 feet from the
>> ocean water of the British Columbia Inside Passage and 30 feet the other
>> way to the B.C. woods. So yes, we will have sealed in moisture and I thank
>> you for pointing this out.
>>
>> When in the water the bilge should be quite cool, as the water
>> temperature is about 10C year round. I don't know what bearing this has.
>>
>> Will I not have a baseline to measure against? Let's say the humidity is
>> 70% when the bilge is sealed. I would take readings then and again after
>> the boat is launched. Periodically thereafter I would take additional
>> reading and expect them to be in the range of the original ones.
>>
>> I say again, OWFS is a great project with great participants. I follow
>> the list and try to learn from it but sometimes don't understand a word.
>> Thanks, Paul.
>> Thanks, everyone.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 8, 2013 at 11:20 AM, Don Veino <sourceforge_...@veino.com>wrote:
>>
>>> Looks like you have a nice project going. However, I'm going to guess
>>> that no matter what you do, you are going to have liquid water inside the
>>> compartments if you seal them shut.
>>>
>>> Why? Unless you are building the boat in a desert in winter, you will be
>>> sealing in relatively warm and humid air inside the compartments. When the
>>> boat is in the water, the compartments will cool and the moisture will
>>> condense.
>>>
>>> Depending on the size of the compartments, the amount of liquid water
>>> could be a few drops to something more significant.
>>>
>>> I'm projecting your construction technique to mean exterior epoxy
>>> coating but likely not interior to the compartments. If so, then you have
>>> the opportunity for interior rot with water contacting bare wood.
>>>
>>> I built a small trailer with similar construction that was very air
>>> tight and ended up adding vents and a drain plug for this and other
>>> reasons. And yes, I did play with the idea of installing a 1-wire network
>>> in the trailer to monitor conditions and control some stuff. :)
>>>
>>>
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