Thanks everyone. I'm now the proud owner of a working MX and MX winder. The '76' batteries worked just fine and the readings look reasonable. Unfortunately, I didn't get Alan's very helpful comments until I had already forked over my $70 for the camera and manual. I checked the all the stuff you mentioned and it looked reasonably within where a 20+ year old camera (it's the older 9 serial number with metal memo holder). I've got 30 days to be satisfied and next weekend should prove interesting.
I appreciate the helpful comments. Larry > > Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 17:02:39 -0700 > From: "Alan Chan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: MX > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed > > >With all the encomia about the MX, and having seen one at a reasonable > >price > >(around $100 for a mint-looking body), I put it on hold until the seller > >can > >get a battery so that I can see how well the meter works. Thus far, it's > >taking weeks for him to get the battery. Is the battery required for the MX > >difficult to get (and could this be an ongoing problem), or should I be > >wondering about this specific deal? > > MX uses regular LR44 or SR44 cells. From what I have seen so far, it is > highly unlikely any MX would not suffer any sort of damage consider its age > even a mint looking one (at least 20+ years now). The most common problem is > rusting inside, especially the mechanisms underneath the shutter speed dial > & release button where the water does get in easily. If the camera has not > been serviced properlly recently, you can be sure the shutter is off. Just > fire the 1s shutter and watch your watch (will be significantly shorter than > 1s). For the newer version (plastic memo holder, serial number #4...), the > light meter will be accurate unless someone messed with it before, so is the > focus. To check the condition, I would wind the shutter, use my finger to > move the sprocket lightly and see if it move too much (it does move a bit). > If it does, forget it (require major disassemble to replace the part, the > broken screw, not the sprocket). Check the screw inside mirror box near the > mirror, if it has tool mark, forget it (mean the mirror position & screen > have been messed with). Use your widest lens to check infinity & 1 metre > distance with split image, if it is off even by the slightly bit, forget it > (calibration MX is a tiresome job as I have found out lately, 2 of the > biggest repair shops here failed to do the job properly, one even tried to > kill it. I don't know why they did such a lousy job consider they have been > in business since 75). Also check the shutter curtain for damage. Well, the > list goes on & on, but I should stop now before I go crazy. There is another > broken MX waiting for me to fix now... > > Alan Chan > http://www.pbase.com/wlachan >
