Paul Stenquist wrote:
I wouldn't count Four Seasons or Palm, because they're displaced NY restaurants.
If a restaurant is located on Los Angeles, I have located it and like it, I don't really much care who it's Mama was...
And, quite frankly, I find the Palm very ordinary, in NY, LA, Chicago, Detroit, Mexico City, and everywhere else it's been franchised.
Franchised? Aha, therein lies an explanation, perhaps.
I've always thought of it as family owned and grown.
Any franchise can vary widely in quality from it's original, simply because the tenacles are too far from the head. Control is eventually and effectively relinquished.
I know the Palm has been in L.A. for a long time. It takes on it's own character in that time. You may go to one of the other Palm restaurants, and the general layout and decor may remind you of others, but I suspect each has it's own flavor -- so to speak...
I've only been going there for perhaps 9 to 10 years, but I have met a now retired chef, several waiters who've been there for years, folks/employees that make the place what it is.
It helps that I went there for the first time with one of their long time employees, a bartender everybody knew and loved.
So far as Four Seasons is concerned, I was last there maybe 20 years ago, and cannot speak of it's present quality. It does retain the name and aura, but I've seen other restaurants lose it over time. You don't keep customers on reputation and high prices alone. Not for long.
But I agree with the rest of your list. I would certainly add Ivy, Chinois, Crustacean, Mimosa, Matsuhisha (sp?), and many many others.
I can only speak of Chinois-on-Main, in south Santa Monica or Venice, the over-priced, too pretentious, impossible to get a reservation unless you know someone or are a name in the city eatery. In other words, if you're someone instantly recognizable to potential customers.
A lot of places in L.A. are like that. Places to see movers and shakers, stars of tv and movies, but devoid of that draw, offer little but snotty waiters and mediochre but haughty service.
That venue taints all Chinois sites. I'll never go back, and I bad mouth them every chance I get. Once was enough...
The other side of the coin is Le Petit Moulin on Montana Blvd, n Santa Monica. I've been going there, on and off, for years and years. Small and classy.
Back when I was much younger and a far more frequent customer, I was recognized and called by name. Service was always impeccable and the food couldn't be improved upon...
keith (thanks for the memories) whaley
