Thanks for all the tips Jim
I suppose i forgot to mention this was from a DSLR but colour temperature comes into
play
with these
things too. I wonder if i should have used a preset K temp on the camera.I think a
setting towards the
cooler blue would have helped.Yes.?
Dave
> It looks like a colour temperature (CT) problem.
The main subjects are
> primarily lit by incandescent light, which produces the "golden hue" when
> shot with "daylight" colour film. For more info on CT, see:
>
> www.aeimages.com/learn/color-correction.html
>
> In the future, you might try using Tungsten film, or a "cooling" colour
> conversion (CC) filter, or a more powerful flash.
>
> The first two solutions are only good when there is enough ambient light to
> illuminate the source without using flash, and so they won't work for many
> indoor action shots. Tungsten films are relatively slow (Kodak Portra
> 100T, Fuji NPL 160), and you have to increase EV to compensate for a CC
> filter (e.g. +2 EV for 80A). B&W is much better suited to this kind of
> photography, as you can use ISO 3200 film (which I like) and CT is not a
> problem (except maybe a panchromatic Y2 filter for blue/green balance). You
> might get decent results with Portra 800 and a +1 EV 80C CC filter on a
> 50/1.7 or 50/1.4 lens, but you'd have to get pretty close to the stage.
>
> If you use a more powerful flash at a distance from the stage, then you
> should consider an off-camera setup with an adjustable flash bracket to
> avoid redeye - the flash should be 2.5 degrees or more off the lens-to-image
> sight line, and so the camera-to-flash offset distance has to increase as
> you get further away from the subject.
>
> To use CC filters, you can use a CT meter to determine exactly which CC
> filter is appropriate (e.g. 80A, 80B, 80C, 82...). I bought a Gossen
> Sixticolor CT meter on eBay a few years back for about $45, and it works
> great. CC filters are also useful for photos where the setting or rising sun
> illuminates the subject. The red/gold illumination provided by
> low-elevation sunlight is 'real', but daylight film over-reacts in
> comparison with the human eye (same problem as your photo).
>
> Jim
> www.jcolwell.ca
>
>
>
