On Sep 12, 2005, at 1:23 PM, Dave Kennedy wrote:
So, maybe I should try RAW. But if I do, what do I need?
You need your choice of RAW converter and image editing software.
Depending upon your system, possibly enough disk space and RAM to do
the job with reasonable efficiency. I'm not a Windows user so I can't
give much advice there. With Mac OS X, you want v10.3.x or v10.4.x,
512-768M RAM and a hard drive with enough free disk space, the more
and the faster the better, as a starting point.
You also want a book ... see below.
Currently I'm running PSE 3.0, right off the disk, no plug-ins or
anything. The Organizer tool does not seem to recognize the RAW
files, is there any plugin which would help it support the RAW files?
Sounds like you're on Windows ... someone else will have to help you
regards configuration of the Organizer, etc.
If you already use PSE 3.0, just go to the Adobe.com website and
download the Camera Raw and DNG Converter v3.1 packages, install them
as instructed. Presuming you're working with a Windows computer, the
URL is
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/product.jsp?
product=40&platform=Windows
and for Mac OS X it's:
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/product.jsp?
product=40&platform=Macintosh
If I start this, anticipate workflow questions.....
I strongly recommend Bruce Fraser's book, "Real World Camera Raw with
Adobe Photoshop CS(2)". The Camera Raw plug in will only operate in
Basic mode in Photoshop Elements 3, but most of what you will need is
all included in Basic mode. I think I've used the Advanced mode once
or twice.
Bruce outlines the basic workflow for RAW conversion:
once:
- set up Camera Raw preferences
- set up output desired (16 or 8 bit, color space, sizing)
per image:
- open image
- set exposure (white point)
- set color balance
- set brightness and contrast (gamma curve)
- set shadows (black point)
- convert to .PSD output
From there it's image processing as usual in PS or PSE.
BTW: The order of the adjustments is not set in stone. Someone
mentioned that they got good results from running brightness/contrast
up and then toning down exposure. Doesn't really make much
difference, as the operations are going to do the same
transformations no matter which order you tweak the adjustment
controls in; only difference is how you see the image changing. Learn
how to see and use the histogram, what the specific controls do, and
you'll come to a workflow that you understand, that is predictable
and produces the output you want.
Godfrey
