Len,
I was prompting you to confess to the knowledge that you CAN determine
the contrast range with an incident meter.
If a scene is sunlit and the shadows are important, take 2 readings. One
measuring the source of the primary illumination (sun) and the source of the
secondary illumination (sky). From this, the contrast range can be
determined and the exposure determined factoring the filters and more
importantly the time in the "soup".
Bob
> Bob brought up the use of spot meters to measure contrast range.
> That's all I was addressing.
>
> Certainly you can use a spot meter to take a reflected light
> reading off a middle gray tone. That kind of usage is no more
> accurate than taking an incident reading, however.
>
> With an incident meter, I don't have to guess what tone will be
> middle gray.
>
> I'm not saying any method of working is any better than any
> other method. I'm just telling what works for me. Certainly,
> your mileage may vary. :-)
>
> Len
> ---
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
> > Shel Belinkoff
> > Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 8:23 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Filter Factors
> >
> >
> > Len,
> >
> > you make it sound as though using a spotmeter is some sort of
> > protracted and complicated experience. And it's not
> > just for the zone
> > system. Nothing can be further from the truth. I use
> > mine for street
> > shooting, as well as for other subjects. I take a
> > quick reading off a
> > middle grey tone, or, any other tone, opening up or
> > stopping down as
> > appropriate, and that's it. I put the meter away and go on
> > photographing. Since the light generally doesn't
> > change while doing a
> > series of photographs, there's no need to meter further.
> -
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