I think I missed some e-mails, however, there was some discussion on 13%
grey or 18% grey. Would someone explain that part to me a bit ?
More importantly, is there any book which would explain the zone system ?
Thanks in advance.
Anand
>From: PAUL STENQUIST <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: Filter Factors
>Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 21:33:40 -0400
>
>I agree with Shel again! :-) I'm a big fan of spot metering, and I use
>my old analog Pentax Spotmeter extensively, particularly when I have to
>get something right. Most often I'll take a reading on the darkest
>shadow area that I want to record, then stop down 2 stops from that
>exposure. That puts the shadow area at zone 3, which assures some detail
>will record. Or how about a sunset. Find the area of the sky that you
>want to have value comparable to 18% gray and take a meter reading at
>that point. That's zone 5, which will give you a nice orange ball if
>you're shooting right into the heart of old sol.
>Paul Stenquist
>
>Shel Belinkoff wrote:
> >
> > Len,
> >
> > you make it sound as though using a spotmeter is some sort of
> > protracted and complicated experience. And it's not just for the zone
> > system. Nothing can be further from the truth. I use mine for street
> > shooting, as well as for other subjects. I take a quick reading off a
> > middle grey tone, or, any other tone, opening up or stopping down as
> > appropriate, and that's it. I put the meter away and go on
> > photographing. Since the light generally doesn't change while doing a
> > series of photographs, there's no need to meter further.
> >
> > What is important, just as with an incident meter, is to understand
> > the range of light, which is learned through experience. If the scene
> > has a particularly wide contrast range, the spotmeter allows for a
> > quick sweep of the scene, rapidly determining the highlights and
> > deepest shadows, and in a brief moment one can determine a precise
> > exposure and decide just what will be left to go black, where the
> > highlights will be, and, if one wants to get really creative,
> > determine the developing time. An incident meter is great for average
> > scenes, but by itself will not always provide the photographer with
> > the complete story.
> >
> > Len Paris wrote:
> >
> > > A spot meter, especially one that has been modified to respond
> > > to colors correctly, is a valuable tool for folks that shoot
> > > using the zone system. It's wonderful when you have time to do
> > > that kind of deliberate, painstaking photography. When you are
> > > trying to capture fleeting moments, incident readings are about
> > > as much as I have time for. Sometimes, I have only the Sunny 16
> > > rule and the filter factor to work with, along with the
> > > experience of years of shooting that gives an instinct of when
> > > to open up or close down a stop or so.
> >
> > --
> > Shel Belinkoff
> > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > -
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> > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
>-
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