welcome to the group!
rg2 On 6/4/08, P. J. Alling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > It's not in my spell checker and the suggestion was well, not appropriate... > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > Hey, without defraction how would we know where to cut de pie? > > > > I think you meant diffraction:-) > > > > Paul > > (being a wise-ass) > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > > From: "P. J. Alling" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >> frank theriault wrote: > >> > >>> Well, that clarifies things... > >>> > >>> ;-) > >>> > >> Heck, I didn't even get into defraction... > >> (Jo, don't worry about it, nothing you need to care about right now or > >> probably ever). > >> > >> frank theriault wrote: > >> > >>> On Wed, Jun 4, 2008 at 11:23 AM, P. J. Alling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> > >> wrote: > >> > >>> > >>> > >>>> First you need is a quick course on exposure values and how they effect > >>>> the way your camera captures images. There used to be two parameters > >>>> that could be readily controlled, aperture and shutter speed, which were > >>>> adjusted to give the proper exposure. In addition higher shutter speed > >>>> can "freeze" action, aperture controls the depth of apparent focus (the > >>>> smaller the aperture, though confusingly enough the larger the aperture > >>>> number, the more DOF is available), the combination of the two controls > >>>> the amount of light hitting the sensor which will effect the quality of > >>>> your results. In addition today you also have control over the > >>>> effective ISO of your sensor, higher ISOs will allow faster shutter > >>>> speeds to stop more action and more Depth of Field, but above a certain > >>>> ISO image quality begins to be degraded by digital noise. Everything is > >>>> a compromise, good choices of the three exposure parameters will give > >>>> good results but remember you'll have to choose what's most important. > >>>> Then there's Flash. Flash can supplement the available light or replace > >>>> it, but the same parameters used in natural light still control the look > >>>> and quality of the photograph. > >>>> > >>>> You need to realize that auto focus can be your enemy, I find that in > >>>> automatic modes it always picks a part of a scene to focus on other than > >>>> the one I wanted, it's especially problematic when you need it most, > >>>> (usually in marginal lighting situations). Learn when you can trust > >>>> your auto focus and when you need to take a hand. You have chosen a > >>>> particularly difficult subject, living creatures with minds of their > >>>> own, i.e. puppies, you know their habits and behaviors, your camera > >>>> doesn't you have to pick the point of focus to anticipate what you > >>>> expect them to be doing next, the camera can't, it generally doesn't > >>>> know what you're interested in. You have to be aware of how much DOF > >>>> the lens is delivering as well as where the actual point of focus is. > >>>> Sometimes you can't get everything in acceptable focus that you want, so > >>>> you have to choose, once again a compromise. > >>>> > >>>> The best way to improve is learn the basics, exposure, and the effects > >>>> aperture and shutter speed will have on apparent sharpness and > >>>> movement. Practice focusing manually anticipating the movement of your > >>>> subject, not an easy thing, I know but there's no way around it. Shoot > >>>> lots of pictures and show them to people who know a bit about > >>>> photography tell them what you were trying to accomplish and what your > >>>> camera settings were. PESOs here can be good for that. You'll get lots > >>>> of stupid comments, (not the least of all from me), but you'll also get > >>>> some good advice. The almost got what I wanted photos are often the > >>>> best to show. > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>> Well, that clarifies things... > >>> > >>> ;-) > >>> > >>> Well, seriously, everything Peter said is true. You have to know > >>> exposure, and light, and how those things interact. What shutter > >>> speed and aperture (and now ISO - with film, ISO was the "film speed" > >>> and couldn't be changed except by changing the roll of film) do to the > >>> incoming light affect the image in major ways: What's light and dark > >>> on the image of course, but also what's sharp or blurry. > >>> > >>> Then there's focus... > >>> > >>> But here's the thing. Reading about it is really difficult (at least > >>> for me). It's so much easier to learn by doing. You have one huge > >>> advantage with your digital camera, which is that you can shoot > >>> (virtually) for free. So shoot away, have fun, don't worry about the > >>> results. > >>> > >>> But if things don't turn out as you expect, find out why. Check in > >>> your EXIF data to see what your shutter speed, aperture and ISO > >>> ratings were, see if you can figure out how those things affected your > >>> result. From there, you may want to control one or more of these > >>> things to try to change future results. Was the dog blurry because he > >>> moved? Maybe you need to use a faster shutter speed. Was only part > >>> of the dog in focus, but not all of it? Maybe you need a narrower > >>> aperture. Not enough room to change either of these values? Maybe > >>> you need an higher ISO. > >>> > >>> As Peter said, ask questions. Post photos and ask. Most of us don't > >>> bite. > >>> > >>> One thing that Peter didn't get on to that I think affects things more > >>> than the camera and its settings is ~composition~. You can have all > >>> the settings on your camera perfect, the autofocus (or you manual > >>> focus) can be spot-on, but if what's in the photo is banal and boring, > >>> you might as well have bought a disposable camera. OTOH, there are > >>> folks that get amazing images from the most rudimentary of plastic > >>> cameras such as Holgas and the like, because of their composition. > >>> > >>> Look at good photographs (including many you'll see posted on this > >>> list). Look at photography books. Go to websites such as this: > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> http://www.magnumphotos.com/Archive/C.aspx?VP=XSpecific_MAG.AgencyHome_VPage&pid > >> =2K7O3R1VX08V > >> > >>> Look at the photos, see what works and maybe even why they work. I'm > >>> not talking technically, but notice where things are in the frame and > >>> see what you like and what you don't. Note how some photos are not > >>> sharp, not well-exposed, but still work! > >>> > >>> Get inspired. > >>> > >>> Then shoot some more. > >>> > >>> Most of all have fun! You're not a pro. Most of us on this list > >>> aren't pros. If you're not having fun, why else would you be taking > >>> pictures? > >>> > >>> ;-) > >>> > >>> cheers, > >>> frank > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> -- > >> Vote for Cthulhu. Why settle for a lesser evil... > >> -- Dr. Jerry Pournelle > >> > >> > >> -- > >> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > >> [email protected] > >> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > >> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and > >> follow > >> the directions. > >> > > > > > > > > > -- > Vote for Cthulhu. Why settle for a lesser evil... > -- Dr. Jerry Pournelle > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. > -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
